2 week Guide to Puglia
The beautiful whitewashed town of Vieste
Two week trip to Puglia staying in six different towns for versatility
It has been a good 5 years since we have been to Puglia the last time, so we thought it would be lovely to have our next holiday back down south of Italy. We traveled in the end of September for two weeks and we could not have been any luckier with the weather. It was about 26 degrees every single day but not as terribly hot as during the mid of summer. As per usual, we rented a car and traveled to different towns and a couple of masseria’s (typical farm house hotels) so we would maximise seeing different places. I wanted to share this itinerary with you guys, incase you are interested in traveling the same route.
Often we fly to Rome and drive down to Puglia, but this time we flew straight to Bari and stayed here for the first three days. We traveled with our almost three year old, so this trip is perfectly suitable for children too. We traveled from Bari- Vieste- Masseria-Masseria- Otranto and Cisternino. We have been to Puglia 4 times before and have visited many of the towns in the region and this time around, we could not have been any more happier with our route of choice.
Short Introduction to Why you should visit Puglia
Puglia, also known as Apulia, is a stunning region in southern Italy that forms the heel of Italy's "boot." It is renowned for its picturesque landscapes, charming villages, and historic architecture. The region boasts a coastline with crystal-clear turquoise waters, sandy beaches, and dramatic cliffs along both the Adriatic and Ionian Seas.
Puglia is also famous for its distinctive whitewashed hilltop towns, such as Ostuni and unique conical-roofed houses called "trulli" found in Alberobello. Its rich history is evident in ancient sites like the Castel del Monte and Baroque architecture in cities like Lecce. The region's delicious cuisine, featuring fresh seafood, local olive oil, and traditional dishes like orecchiette pasta, adds to its charm. The Adriatic sea is crystal clear to swim in and the beautiful countryside landscape makes the region ideal for road trips. Stay inland or on the coast for contrasted beauty and visit traditional masseria’s that are stunning farm hotels.
Bari
We stayed in Bari for the first three nights. We hadn’t been to Bari before but was positively surprised what a lively vibrant city it was. We stayed in an air B&B right in the heart of the old town (which is usually where we aim to be when we travel) called Bari Vecchia. We had a sweet little room with a balcony straight into a busy narrow street that was full of vegetable shops and cafes. When deciding where to stay, we often google the restaurant selection and when you notice there are a lot of good looking restaurants, that often persuades us to stay in the area. With this method, we have found a lot of great places, like Montefalco in Umbria.
Bari, the capital of the Puglia region in southern Italy, is a vibrant port city that beautifully blends history with modernity. Its heart lies in the old town, known as Bari Vecchia, a maze of narrow, winding streets filled with character. This historic quarter is famous for its medieval architecture, ancient churches, and lively atmosphere. At the center stands the Basilica of San Nicola, a stunning 12th-century church that houses the relics of Saint Nicholas, making it a significant pilgrimage site.
Bari Vecchia's charm also lies in its authenticity; local residents can often be seen making fresh pasta by hand, and there are plenty of small cafes and trattorias where you can savor traditional Apulian dishes. The old town's seaside promenade, Lungomare, offers beautiful views of the Adriatic Sea and is perfect for an evening stroll. With our luck, there was an amazing circus in town that we went to see with our little boy creating the most amazing memories.
Insiders tip:
Make a day trip to Torre Canne (30min drive from Bari) for the most amazing seafood lunch at Il Principe del mare, where you can have fresh sea urchins straight from the sea from infront of you. We have been coming to this restaurant every time we visit Puglia. The restaurant is located on a road that is full of secluded beaches, where you can catch a few families swimming or fishing and strongly encourage you to go swimming after the lunch. Our son loved collecting rocks by the water and it was amazing to dip our feet into the water after lunch.
You may need a reservation as the place fills up fairly quickly
Seafront of Vieste
Vieste
After Bari, we drove to Vieste for the next three days that is one of our favourite places to visit. With amazing restaurants this cosy whitewashed town is a breath of fresh air. The drive here is beautiful and we stayed in a beautiful air b&b with 2 balconies in perfect location.
Vieste is a charming seaside town located on the Gargano Peninsula in northern Puglia, known for its dramatic coastal scenery and historic charm. Perched on a rocky promontory jutting into the Adriatic Sea, Vieste boasts stunning white cliffs, hidden caves, and some of the region's most beautiful beaches, such as Spiaggia del Castello and Pizzomunno Beach, famous for its towering limestone monolith.
The town's historic center is a labyrinth of narrow, cobbled streets, whitewashed houses, and ancient churches, like the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. Its medieval atmosphere, highlighted by the Vieste Castle, offers a glimpse into the past, while the panoramic views of the sea are breathtaking.
Vieste's blend of natural beauty, historical charm, and laid-back atmosphere makes it an ideal destination for those seeking both relaxation and adventure on Italy's stunning coastline.
Pizzomunno Beach famous for the limestone rock
Masseria Tenuta Yala (located in Parabita)
Our next 2 night stay was in a farm hotel called Masseria Tenuta Yala located in Parabita. This masseria was unique to our previous masseria stays, as we actaully had our own little house in the land which made the stay extra special and private. Our house overlooked the vineyard where we enjoyed a glass of wine and cheeses before having dinner at the main house. This place also had a lot of animals like horses, cats ducks, goats and a play area for children. The pool was wonderfully relaxing and the area was beautiful. We will surely be returning here again.
From the masseria, we visited a few new places like a small coastal town called Santa Maria al Bagno and Nardó. When we left from here to our new masseria, we also visited Grottaglie town ( famous ceramic town in Puglia) as we wanted to order new ceramics for home.
The view of main house where dinner and breakfast is served
Masseria Lama San Giorgio in Rutigliano
We stayed in this masseria for a few nights that is also located in a vineyard and where they make their own olive oil. This masseria had a huge playground (on the side of their premises) so you could tell, it had more families with children here. We stayed in their suite, but to be honest I found the previous masseria setup slightly more cosy. So between these two, I would opt for the first choice even though this one was lovely too. The poolside was beautiful and so was the masseria. When we left from here to Otranto, we stopped at Ostuni for lunch. We also visited Monopoli and Polignano A Mare from this masseria.
The main Masseria where breakfast and dinner is served
Otranto
Otranto is a picturesque coastal town located on the easternmost tip of Italy, in the Salento region of Puglia. It is known for its stunning turquoise waters, white sandy beaches, and rich history. The town's charm lies in its blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage, with a fascinating mix of Greek, Roman, and Byzantine influences. Otranto is one of our favourite little towns. We stayed in a lovely air B&B right on the main pathways of the old town, again ideal located with a sweet balcony. The water in Otranto is just breathtaking and this was my favourite place to go swimming.
The historic center is characterized by narrow streets, whitewashed buildings, and landmarks like the Otranto Cathedral, famous for its impressive 12th-century mosaic floor depicting the Tree of Life. The Aragonese Castle, a historic fortress overlooking the sea, adds to the town's allure. The nearby Baia dei Turchi and the dramatic Faraglioni di Sant'Andrea offer beautiful coastal scenery for nature lovers.
With its crystal-clear waters, historic architecture, and relaxed atmosphere, Otranto is an ideal place to experience the authentic charm of southern Italy while enjoying the natural beauty of the Adriatic coast. Lastly, it must be noticed that all the towns we visited have a lovely playground for children, very clean and safe which was great and most places even had carousels which came alive in the evenings when it got dark. We made it a thing to go on these rides before dinner to ware out some energy from the little one.
Sunset in Otranto
This picture does not do justice to the clear water but this was a cute little spot to let our son play in the shallow water
Cisternino
Our last spot of the trip was Cisternino, a small town inland close to other famous towns like Martina Franca, Locorotondo, Ostuni, Ceglie Messapica. We decided to make Cisternino our last spot, because we have only visited it once before for lunch. It is known for being a meat-lovers area, so it was a nice change after all the seafood and fish we indulged during the trip.
Cisternino is a charming hilltop town in the heart of the Itria Valley in Puglia, known for its whitewashed houses, narrow streets, and stunning views of the surrounding countryside dotted with ancient olive groves and trulli (traditional stone huts with conical roofs). The town exudes a timeless atmosphere, with its historic center resembling a labyrinth of stone archways, courtyards, and quaint balconies adorned with flowers.
Cisternino is famous for its unique culinary tradition of fornelli, small butcher shops that grill meat to order, allowing visitors to enjoy authentic, freshly cooked dishes. The town's tranquil ambiance, combined with its traditional architecture and culinary delights, makes it a perfect destination for those seeking a peaceful and authentic Puglian experience. One evening we ate a 1.5kg dry aged steak (just the two of us) that was so delicious!
With its blend of historic charm, stunning vistas, and vibrant local culture, Cisternino offers a true taste of southern Italy's rustic beauty. From Cisternino we drove back to Bari airport, which is a short easy drive.
If you ever get a chance to visit Puglia, defiantly make your base in a few different places both on the coast and inland. Blend in some masseria stays to give you that special experience.
Other masseria’s that I loved staying in: Masseria Palombara & Masseria Potenti.
Our air b&b was on this street, which was the gateway to the old town of Cisternino
