Masseria Tenuta Yala
Masseria Tenuta Yala is a hidden paradise nestled in the heart of Puglia, where rustic charm meets refined elegance in perfect harmony. This enchanting masseria, with its warm stone walls and sprawling vineyard, feels like a serene escape from the world. As you step onto the grounds, you're greeted by the gentle hum of nature—cicadas singing, birds fluttering, and the soft rustle of the breeze through ancient trees. The meticulously restored farmhouse blends traditional architecture with modern comforts, offering a cozy, yet private stay that feels like home, but with a touch of magic. I thought Masseria Tenuta Yala is worth mentioning because you get to stay in private houses in the grounds of the manner. I loved the fact that we had such a private space and you could sit on multiple of terraces to winddown. Aesthetically, very pleasing and we loved all the animals on the property. You could feed the horses, goats, ducks, chickens and all the cats and dogs were roaming free.
Wander through the lush gardens, where fragrant flowers bloom, and take a moment to relax by the pool, surrounded by panoramic views of the tranquil countryside. Whether you're savoring a delicious meal made with local ingredients or simply enjoying the peaceful surroundings, the atmosphere is one of pure tranquility. It’s the perfect place to unwind, reconnect with nature, and indulge in the authentic beauty of Puglia. We will surely return back here with our family. Read more about masseria stays from here.
We made day trips to Nardó and Santa Maria al Bagno.
Day trip to Grottaglie
Traditional Trulli houses alongside our drive
Travel Guide to Grottaglie, Puglia
Nestled in the heart of Puglia, Grottaglie is a charming town renowned for its rich ceramic tradition, stunning medieval architecture, and vibrant local culture. It’s the perfect destination for a day trip, offering a blend of history, artistry, and picturesque landscapes. We have visited grottaglie a couple of times, both tiems with the idea of purchasing ceramics to take back home with us. We discovered the ceramics store Nicola Fasano around eight years ago, when we stayed in Masseria Palombara and they had plates from there. The shipment from the store is also very reliable so this time we purchased a huge urn and a beautiful unique lamp along with some coffee cups and statement plates. Grottaglie is a great place for a day trip, to look around at all the handmade ceramics and have lunch. There was also an antique fair & food market when we where there and found some lovely small antiques to take home with us.
Highlights of Grottaglie:
Ceramic Shopping: Grottaglie is famous for its ceramics, and one of the best places to experience this craft is at Nicola Fasano Ceramics. Here, you can browse a wide selection of handmade pottery, from traditional pieces to contemporary designs. The best part? You can purchase these beautiful items and have them shipped directly to your home country, allowing you to take a piece of Grottaglie’s artistry with you.
Historic Sites: Stroll through the old town’s narrow streets and visit the Castello Episcopio, a medieval fortress that offers a glimpse into the town’s past. Don’t miss the Matera Cave District, where ancient cave dwellings and rock churches provide a striking contrast to the modern town above.
Ceramic Quarter: The Quartiere delle Ceramiche is a vibrant neighborhood where artisans continue to create and sell their wares. It’s a wonderful place to explore and discover unique ceramic pieces, some of which have been crafted by local families for generations.
Nearby Towns:
Grottaglie is conveniently located near several other beautiful towns in Puglia that are worth exploring:
Taranto (25 km): A historic coastal city with ancient ruins, museums, and a picturesque old town. We stayed in Relais Histo a couple of times that is a lovely spa masseria.
Matera (70 km): Famous for its ancient cave dwellings and the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Sassi di Matera. Matera is a lovely interesting place to stay, have traveled here two times. The hotels in Matera are amazing.
Alberobello (40 km): Known for its iconic trulli houses, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Ostuni (50 km): The "White City" perched on a hill, offering stunning views and a maze of whitewashed streets.
Conclusion:
Grottaglie is the perfect place to experience Puglia's artistic heritage and charm. Whether you're in town for the ceramics, history, or simply to soak in the atmosphere, this quaint town promises a memorable day trip. With nearby towns offering even more cultural treasures, Grottaglie makes an excellent base for exploring the region.
Above images: on the left is an image from the antique and food market. We also had lunch at a random small restaurant and it turned out to be one of my favourite octopus dishes of the trip. It was so tasty and deliicous.
Day trips: Nardó & Santa Maria al Bagno
Travel Guide to Nardò and Santa Maria al Bagno
Nestled along the stunning Ionian coast of Puglia, Nardò and Santa Maria al Bagno are two charming destinations located just a short distance from one another. Offering a combination of history, natural beauty, and coastal charm, they make for an ideal getaway in the Salento region. We took day trips to both these towns from Masseria Tenuta Yala, both places are small and cosy which makes them a lovely day trip type of destination.
Nardò
Welcome to Nardò, a little gem tucked away in the heart of Puglia, where time seems to slow down and the spirit of Southern Italy whispers through every cobblestone street. Picture a town where the sun dances off Baroque façades, narrow alleys lead to secret piazzas, and every corner hides a story of ancient knights and local legends. Nardò is the sort of place that feels like it belongs in a fairy tale, with its golden limestone buildings and a sense of timeless charm that sweeps you off your feet. Whether you're meandering through its historic heart, gazing at its delicate churches, or simply pausing to savor an espresso in a sun-dappled square, Nardò welcomes you like an old friend, inviting you to lose yourself in its warm embrace and enchanting beauty.
A Glimpse into History and Culture
Nardò is a historic town rich in Baroque architecture, ancient churches, and traditional Italian charm. It’s known for its well-preserved old town and vibrant local culture. Here are some must-see highlights:
Piazza Salandra and the Historic Center: Start your visit in the town’s main square, Piazza Salandra, surrounded by elegant Baroque buildings. The square is the heart of Nardò, with cafes and shops where you can enjoy a coffee and soak in the lively atmosphere. Stroll through the narrow streets and discover churches like Cattedrale di Nardò, a grand example of Baroque architecture.
The Nardò Palace: A grand 16th-century palace, Palazzo Personè, stands as one of the town's key landmarks. You can admire its historical significance, and depending on the time of year, there might be exhibitions or events held inside.
The Romanesque Church of San Domenico: This lesser-known church offers an insight into Nardò’s medieval past with its Romanesque architecture and beautiful frescoes.
Museo della Preistoria: For history enthusiasts, the Museum of Prehistory offers a fascinating glimpse into the ancient past of the Salento region, with artifacts dating back to prehistoric times.
Santa Maria al Bagno
Welcome to Santa Maria al Bagno, where the sea kisses the shore with a gentle whisper and the air is filled with the scent of salt and sunshine. This charming coastal haven, tucked along the Ionian Sea in Puglia, feels like a secret waiting to be discovered. Picture a place where turquoise waters sparkle like jewels, sandy beaches stretch endlessly, and the soft breeze carries the laughter of summer. Here, the pace of life slows to the rhythm of the waves, and every sunset is a masterpiece painted across the sky. Whether you're dipping your toes into the crystal-clear sea, wandering the sleepy streets lined with quaint cafes, or simply soaking in the beauty of nature, Santa Maria al Bagno invites you to unwind, breathe deeply, and lose yourself in its serene coastal magic.
Coastal Beauty and Relaxation
Just a short 10-minute drive from Nardò, Santa Maria al Bagno is a coastal gem known for its crystal-clear waters, charming beaches, and relaxed atmosphere. It’s a perfect spot for those looking to unwind by the sea. Here are the highlights:
Beaches: Santa Maria al Bagno boasts some of the best beaches in the region, including the Spiaggia di Santa Maria al Bagno. The clear, turquoise waters and sandy shores are ideal for swimming, sunbathing, or enjoying water sports. The beach is family-friendly and offers a peaceful atmosphere compared to more tourist-heavy destinations.
Parco Naturale Regionale Porto Selvaggio: Just north of Santa Maria al Bagno, this protected nature reserve is a paradise for nature lovers. You’ll find beautiful walking trails, secluded coves, and rugged cliffs overlooking the Ionian Sea. It’s an excellent spot for hiking, birdwatching, and taking in the unspoiled natural beauty of the area.
Lungomare (Seafront Promenade): Take a leisurely stroll along the Lungomare, a picturesque promenade with sea views, cafes, and restaurants where you can enjoy fresh seafood and local delicacies while watching the sunset.
The Torre Santa Maria al Bagno: The historical tower on the beach is a great photo opportunity and provides a glimpse into the region's defense history. From here, you can enjoy panoramic views of the coastline.
Nearby Attractions and Day Trip Ideas
Nardò and Santa Maria al Bagno are ideally located for exploring more of Salento. Here are a few nearby attractions:
Gallipoli (25 km): A beautiful historic coastal town with an old town set on a small island, complete with charming streets, churches, and stunning beaches.
Porto Cesareo (15 km): Another seaside town with crystal-clear waters and a marine reserve perfect for snorkeling and diving.
Leuca (45 km): At the southern tip of Salento, where the Ionian and Adriatic seas meet, Leuca is known for its lighthouse, ancient churches, and breathtaking views.
Conclusion
Whether you're drawn to Nardò’s historical streets and cultural richness or Santa Maria al Bagno’s peaceful beaches and stunning natural scenery, this part of Puglia offers the perfect blend of history, culture, and relaxation. Both towns are easily accessible from each other, making it simple to enjoy the best of both worlds in one day trip or extended stay. With nearby attractions like Gallipoli and Porto Cesareo, the area around Nardò and Santa Maria al Bagno is a wonderful base for discovering the beauty of Salento.
Day trips to Monopoli & Ostuni
Monopoli
During our two week holiday, we visited a number of towns including Monopoli & Ostuni. They are 40 minutes from each other, however we did visit each town on separate days, for lunch. We have visited both towns before quite many years ago and it was nice to see that both the hotels we stayed in during the times, are still up and running. In Ostuni we stayed at relais La Sommita and in Monopoli we stayed in hotel Palazzo Monopoli, both in great central locations of the old town. Both Ostuni and Monopoli are relatively known in Puglia, but definitely woth a visit. Both locations also make a great base for exploring the region more thoroughly.
Monopoli
Monopoli is a charming coastal town in southern Puglia, where the whitewashed buildings and narrow alleys of the old town tumble down toward the turquoise Adriatic Sea. Its historic center, with its cobbled streets and charming squares, is framed by medieval walls and punctuated by Romanesque churches and the impressive Castello di Carlo V. The town’s seafront is dotted with small beaches and rocky coves, perfect for a swim or a stroll along the promenade. The contrast of ancient stone buildings with the vibrant blues of the sea makes Monopoli visually stunning.
Good Food:
Monopoli’s location on the Adriatic means fresh seafood is a highlight of the local cuisine. Dine at one of the seaside restaurants where you can enjoy frittura mista (mixed fried seafood) or spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams). Monopoli has amazing tuna tartares and grilled fish. My husband ate a delicious tuna tartare infused with a cacio pepe pasta, absolutely delicious. Pair your meal with a glass of Primitivo or Negroamaro wine, two of Puglia's most celebrated reds. For dessert, try pasticciotto, a sweet pastry filled with custard, typical of the region or a traditional pistachio icecream.
Cultural History:
Monopoli boasts a rich history that dates back to ancient Greek times, when it was known as Neapolis. Over the centuries, it has been shaped by various rulers, including the Romans and Normans, which is reflected in its architecture. The town’s Aragonese Castle is a testament to its medieval past, while the Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Madia, with its beautiful baroque interior, is a symbol of its religious significance. Monopoli’s historic center is a perfect blend of old-world charm and Mediterranean vitality, with a laid-back, welcoming atmosphere.
Ostuni
Perched on a hilltop, Ostuni is often called the “White City” due to its striking whitewashed buildings that gleam under the southern Italian sun. The town’s maze of narrow, winding streets is lined with traditional houses, many adorned with colorful flowers. From the town’s elevated position, you can enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, olive groves, and the distant Adriatic coastline. The architecture is a blend of medieval, Renaissance, and Baroque styles, with the impressive Cattedrale di Ostuni sitting at the heart of the old town.
Good Food:
Ostuni is a paradise for food lovers, with a focus on fresh, local ingredients. The region's olive oil is world-renowned, and many dishes feature its rich, fruity flavor. Try cavatelli pasta with a simple sauce of tomatoes and olive oil, or a hearty dish of fava beans and chicory, a traditional Puglian comfort food. Seafood is also prominent, with grilled seafood. I ate an amazing crispy grilled octopus and my husband had one of our best pizzas of the trip. Our little boy loved orecciette pasta with butter and cheese. Finish your meal with biscotti di mandorla, almond cookies that pair perfectly with a glass of local Primitivo wine or a crispy prosecco.
Cultural History:
Ostuni’s history stretches back to prehistoric times, though it rose to prominence during the medieval period. The town's Cathedral of Ostuni, built in the 15th century, is a prime example of late Gothic architecture with its stunning rose window and elaborate façade. The old town’s maze-like streets reflect its ancient roots, while the nearby Città Bianca(White City) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ostuni has always been an important center of agriculture, particularly olive cultivation, which has shaped its culture and economy for centuries. Today, it blends its historic charm with modern vibrancy, attracting visitors from around the world.
There was a beautiful interior store on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 34 called La Mercanteria
Monopoli Insider Tip:
For a unique experience, head to Porto Antico (Old Port) at sunset. While the town’s main beaches can get crowded, this hidden gem is a quieter spot where you can watch the golden light reflect off the water, enjoy the views of the fishing boats, and sip a coffee or aperitivo at one of the nearby cafés. It’s the perfect spot to unwind and soak in the authentic, local vibe of Monopoli away from the crowds.
Ostuni Insider Tip:
Make sure to wander off the beaten path and explore the lesser-known Vicolo del Pozzo—a picturesque alleyway with charming old houses and a peaceful courtyard. It’s one of the most photogenic and tranquil spots in Ostuni, offering a glimpse into the town’s quieter, more intimate side. For a real treat, stop at a nearby bakery and try a freshly baked pasticciotto to enjoy as you stroll through this hidden corner of the White City.
All towns we visited in Puglia
Trulli houses
Puglia, the sun-drenched heel of Italy’s boot, is a region where history, culture, and natural beauty converge in a spectacular way. Known for its charming towns, dramatic coastline, and olive groves stretching as far as the eye can see, Puglia offers a slower pace of life that invites visitors to savor its rich culinary traditions, ancient architecture, and rugged landscapes. From the iconic trulli houses of Valle d’Itria to the whitewashed towns, Puglia is a destination that captivates with its authenticity, warm hospitality, and timeless charm.
During our two week holiday, we loved to visit as many places as possible. We traveled to Bari- Vieste- then stayed in a couple of masserias- Otranto- Cisternino. From our bases we explored other towns nearby or stopped for lunch somewhere that was on route to our next destination. Below, is a summary of all the places we visited. We always find a hotel or an air b&b that is located in the old town as the prime location gives walking access to restaurants, cafes and all the beautiful sites.
Bari
We began our journey in Bari for three days, which was a new place for us to stay in. I was pleasantly surprised by the atmosphere and loved the liveliness of the town. There was a circus in town, we also drove to Torre Canne to our favourite seafood restaurant and secluded beaches that is worth a visit if you are in Puglia.
Torre Canne
Torre Canne is worth mentioning because of this hidden lunch spot- known for its fresh sea urchins.
For a day trip from Bari, head to Torre Canne, a small coastal town located about an hour away by car. It’s known for its sandy beaches and tranquil atmosphere, offering a perfect escape from the city. We drove to Torre Canne, simply because il principe di Mare is one of our favourite seafood restaurants. Also the restaurant is located on a road with many quiet beaches that is lovely for an after lunch dip.
Vieste
We love Vieste, it is a little bit off route which is probably why we love this hidden beauty. Vieste’s historic center, perched on a rocky promontory jutting into the Adriatic Sea, is characterized by narrow alleys, whitewashed houses, and winding staircases. Strolling through the old town feels like stepping back in time, with charming streets that invite you to explore.
Masseria Tenuta Yala
Staying in a masseria is essential to an Apulian experince. Imagine waking up to the soft rustle of olive trees, with the scent of wild rosemary drifting in the air and golden sunlight warming the historic stones of a centuries-old farmhouse. This is the essence of a holiday spent in a Masseria in Puglia, a region in Italy that perfectly blends rustic simplicity with refined elegance. If you are ever planning a holiday in Puglia, staying in a masseria which is a restored farm-like hotel makes the holiday that much more special. We usually like to mix our locations by staying in a hotel or air b&b in the city and then a couple of masseria’s in the countryside. From this masseria, we visited two towns nearby called Narni and Santa Maria al Bagno. We loved Masseria Tenuta Yala bacause we had a private house in the grounds, with our own terrace to the vinyard. It felt spacious and private, perfact also when traveling with a toddler.
Santa Maria al Bagno
Santa Maria al Bagno is a tiny coastal town (that we never even heard of before) in Puglia, tucked away along the Ionian Sea, offering a perfect blend of natural beauty and local flavor. With its crystal-clear waters, picturesque harbor, and relaxed atmosphere, it's an ideal spot to take a break and enjoy a leisurely lunch. Whether you're savoring fresh seafood at a seaside restaurant, strolling along the scenic promenade, or dipping your toes into the Mediterranean, Santa Maria al Bagno invites you to unwind and savor the simple pleasures of Puglia's coast.
Narnó
Nardò, a hidden gem in the heart of Puglia, is a historic town brimming with Baroque charm and Mediterranean character. Located just a few kilometers from the Ionian Sea, Nardò boasts a stunning old town, where narrow streets lead to grand piazzas and centuries-old churches. Its impressive Piazza Antonio Salandra and the Palazzo Comunale reflect the town's rich architectural heritage, while the nearby Parco Naturale Regionale di Porto Selvaggio offers breathtaking natural beauty. With its mix of history, culture, and proximity to the coast, Nardò is a peaceful yet captivating destination.
Masseria Lama San Giorgio
This masseria had more families as guests then the masseria Tenuta Yala. This may be due to the fact that, the grounds had a massive playground (thankfully placed on the side so it did not affect the visuals) which was a big hit for children, including for our son. This masseria had a lovely pool and a nice room, but I did prefer the private house more in the previous masseria as it felt more luxurious.
Ostuni
Having stayed in Ostuni before many years ago, we wanted to revisit the town for lunch, when we drove down to Otranto. During our last visit we stayed in a hotel called relais la sommita and it was a beautiful stay. Ostuni, often called the "White City" for its stunning whitewashed buildings, is a hilltop gem in Puglia that captivates visitors with its narrow, winding streets and panoramic views of the surrounding olive groves and the Adriatic Sea. Known for its distinctive blend of Moorish, Norman, and Baroque architecture, Ostuni’s old town is a maze of charming alleys, hidden courtyards, and historic churches. Whether you're exploring its cobblestone streets or enjoying a meal in one of its trattorias, Ostuni offers a picturesque and serene escape, full of charm and authenticity.
Grottaglie
We specifically drove twice to Grottaglie for some ceramic shopping. Nicola Fasano ceramics is the store we always visit as this ships easily and relaibily back home. This time around we bought a large lamp, a 60kg urn for flowers and some typical hand painted plates. Grottaglie, a quaint town in southern Puglia, is best known for its rich pottery tradition, which dates back to ancient times. Nestled in the Murgia region, Grottaglie is a charming destination where the art of ceramics comes to life, especially in the Ceramics Quarter, where local artisans still craft and decorate unique pieces by hand. Beyond its pottery, the town offers a delightful mix of history, with its medieval castle, Chiesa Matrice, and panoramic views over the surrounding countryside. Grottaglie is a perfect stop for those seeking authentic craftsmanship and a glimpse into Puglia's cultural heritage.
-Monopoli
Having visited Monopoli a handful of times, we drove here for lunch from Masseria Lama San Giorgio. Monopoli, a picturesque coastal town in Puglia, combines the charm of a historic center with the beauty of the Adriatic Sea. Its maze of narrow, cobblestone streets is lined with whitewashed buildings, ancient churches, and a stunning seafront promenade. Known for its lively port and beautiful beaches, Monopoli offers a perfect blend of history, culture, and coastal relaxation. Whether you’re exploring its medieval castle, enjoying fresh seafood by the harbor, or swimming in its crystal-clear waters, Monopoli is a delightful escape in the heart of Puglia.
-Polignano a Mare
If you visit Monopoli, you can easily see Polignano a Mare as they are a stone throw away from each other. Polignano a Mare is a stunning cliffside town perched above the turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea, known for its dramatic coastal views and charming historic center. Famous for its picturesque caves and crystal-clear beaches, the town’s old town is a labyrinth of narrow streets, whitewashed buildings, and cozy cafés, offering breathtaking views at every turn. Polignano is also home to the iconic Lama Monachile beach, nestled between towering cliffs, making it a must-visit destination for those seeking natural beauty, history, and a touch of seaside magic. If you are debating whether to stay in Polignano a Mare or Monopoli, I would choose Monopoli because it is slightly larger with a bit more action and better choices for restaurants.
Otranto
We love Otranto, the slow seaside life is cosy and the food is fabulous in this town. The water is so clear and the place is peaceful and magical. Otranto, a historic gem on the eastern coast of Puglia, is a charming seaside town that blends ancient history with stunning coastal beauty. Known for its dramatic Aragonese Castle, the impressive cathedral with its famous mosaic floor, and its crystal-clear waters, Otranto is a place where you can explore centuries of history while enjoying the Mediterranean sunshine. Its labyrinthine old town, vibrant waterfront, and surrounding natural beauty make Otranto a captivating destination for those seeking culture, relaxation, and seaside charm.
Cisternino
Cisternino was our last base for our holiday. There are many great places to visit near Cisternino, like Martina Franca, Locorotondo, Ceglie Messapica, Alberobello or Ostuni. We decided to stay in Cisternino for a it of variety as we had only visited the town once before.
Cisternino, a picturesque hilltop town in the heart of Puglia’s Valle d'Itria, is a hidden gem known for its whitewashed buildings, winding streets, and stunning views over olive groves and rolling hills. With its charming old town, historic churches, and delicious local cuisine—especially the famous bombette (grilled meat rolls)—Cisternino offers a perfect blend of tradition and tranquility. It’s an ideal spot to experience authentic Puglia, away from the crowds, while immersing yourself in the region's rich culture and natural beauty.
The beautiful Cisternino
view from our balcony of our air b&b, views of the old town
Discovering Cisternino: A Hidden Gem in Puglia’s Valle d'Itria
Nestled in the heart of Puglia's Valle d'Itria, Cisternino is one of those rare towns that feels untouched by the fast pace of modern life. With its labyrinthine streets, whitewashed stone buildings, and panoramic views over olive groves and vineyards, Cisternino is a place that seems to have stood still in time. If you're looking for an authentic slice of southern Italy, away from the bustling tourist hotspots, Cisternino should be at the top of your list. We stayed in Cisternino for 2 nights and decided to make this our last pitstop of our 2 week holiday, since we had only visited once before. Cisternino is small and cosy with many restaurant choices, making it a great spot for our last destination.
A Stroll Through Time
Cisternino is part of Puglia’s "Trulli Belt," an area famous for its traditional trulli houses with conical roofs. Though you won’t find as many of these iconic structures here as in nearby Alberobello, Cisternino’s historic center is a labyrinth of charming alleys, whitewashed walls, and cobblestone streets that lead you on a journey back through the centuries.
One of the town's most striking features is its Centro Storico (historic center), a maze of narrow lanes that open up to charming piazzas. The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele is the heart of Cisternino, a spacious square framed by local cafes and restaurants where you can sip an espresso or enjoy an aperitivo while watching life go by.
As you wander further into the old town, you’ll encounter charming churches like the 18th-century Chiesa Madre di San Nicola and Chiesa di San Quirico—both offering a glimpse into the town's rich history and architecture. The Porta Grande, a grand stone archway, is another historic marker that guides you through the ancient town.
Breathtaking Views
Cisternino is perched atop a hill, giving visitors stunning views of the surrounding Valle d'Itria, a fertile valley dotted with olive trees, almond groves, and vineyards. From the town's old town, you can gaze across the undulating landscape, with its patchwork of fields and dry-stone walls, all the way to the horizon. The sight of the sun setting over the valley—bathed in golden light—makes for a picture-perfect moment, especially from one of the town's many vantage points.
Food, Glorious Food
Cisternino may be small, but when it comes to food, it punches well above its weight. The town is famous for its "bombette", small rolls of meat (usually pork) stuffed with cheese, herbs, and spices, then grilled to perfection. You’ll find bombette on almost every menu at local trattorias and butcher shops, and it’s a must-try when visiting.
One of the most charming aspects of Cisternino’s culinary culture is the "macelleria con rosticceria"—a butcher shop that doubles as a grill. Locals head to these establishments, where they select their own cuts of meat, and then have them grilled on-site, usually served with fresh bread, grilled vegetables, and local wine. It’s an unpretentious, communal way of dining that epitomizes the hospitality of the region.
For a more refined experience, you’ll also find top-notch restaurants that showcase the best of Puglia’s cuisine, from orecchiette pasta with rich tomato sauce and local cheese to seafood straight from the Adriatic coast.
Trulli and Beyond: Exploring the Surroundings
While Cisternino itself is small, it’s surrounded by some of the most picturesque towns in Puglia, making it a great base for exploring the region. The nearby towns of Ostuni, often referred to as the "White City," and Alberobello, famous for its UNESCO-listed trulli, are just short drives away. But even closer to home, you can visit the Masserie (traditional farmhouses) and trulli farms scattered throughout the Valle d'Itria.
For those who love nature, the Parco delle Dune Costiere (Coastal Dune Park) is just a short drive away. This protected area boasts miles of beautiful coastline, sandy beaches, and tranquil Mediterranean vegetation, perfect for a day trip to enjoy the region’s natural beauty.
Getting There and Around
Cisternino is well-connected by road, making it easy to reach from other major towns in Puglia. The nearest airport is in Brindisi, about an hour’s drive away. Renting a car is the best way to explore not only Cisternino but the entire Valle d'Itria, which is dotted with charming villages and picturesque landscapes.
Cisternino is not as well-known as some of Puglia’s other towns, which means it retains an authentic, laid-back charm that’s hard to find in more touristy spots. Whether you're strolling through its historic center, savoring local food, or taking in the views, it’s a place that will steal your heart and leave you longing for more.
Final Thoughts
If you’re looking for a destination that blends history, culture, natural beauty, and delicious food in a quiet, unassuming way, Cisternino is a must-visit. It’s the kind of place where you can lose yourself in its timeless streets, indulge in mouthwatering cuisine, and experience the slower pace of life that defines this corner of southern Italy. Don’t just visit—immerse yourself in the charm and warmth of Cisternino, and you’ll see why this hidden gem is a true treasure of Puglia.
sunday market
Insider Tip: If you're in town on a Sunday, head to the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele after lunch. Locals gather for a casual promenade, and you’ll get a true taste of Cisternino’s vibrant social life—perfect for people-watching and experiencing authentic Italian culture!
Hidden Otranto- Puglia
Welcome to Otranto, a sun-kissed gem tucked away on the heel of Italy’s boot, where time slows down, the sea is impossibly clear, and every street corner whispers secrets of ancient history. If you’re looking for the perfect mix of relaxation, adventure, and family-friendly fun, Otranto is the place where all your travel dreams can come true. We have visited Otranto twice before and there is something special about this small town that keeps us coming back. We stayed only for two nights this time, so we spent both our days without going anywhere. We where lucky as there was a lovely market in town and I found amazing antiques, such as brass candle holders and an oval mirror to take home with us. We stayed in the heart of the old town, so we were at walking distance from all the shops, beach and restaurants.
A Brief History of Otranto
Otranto, often described as the “Gateway to the East,” has a history as rich and varied as its stunning coastal views. Situated on the southeastern tip of Italy's Puglia region, Otranto has been a crossroads of cultures for millennia. Its strategic position at the entrance to the Adriatic Sea made it an important port town from ancient times, and it played a key role during the Roman Empire and the Byzantine era.
One of Otranto's most significant historical moments occurred in 1480, when the town was besieged by the Ottoman Empire. The heroic defense of the town and the martyrdom of its residents—who were killed for refusing to convert to Islam—became a pivotal episode in the town’s legacy. Today, the memory of this event is preserved in the Otranto Cathedral, where you can find the remains of the 800 martyrs in the crypt, as well as a stunning floor mosaic that depicts scenes from the Bible and the world’s creation.
The town has also been under the rule of the Normans, the Swabians, and the Aragonese, with each period leaving its mark on the town’s architecture and culture. Otranto’s Old Town, with its narrow streets and whitewashed houses, still retains much of this historical charm.
Our cosy air b&b balcony, enjoying a morning espresso before we went out to explore
My favourite spot to go for a swim. Also this spot has a lovely cocktail bar that opens in the evening.
Places to Visit Nearby
Otranto isn’t just a place to visit in its own right—there are plenty of nearby attractions that make it an ideal base for exploring the wider Puglia region.
Alimini Lakes (Laghi Alimini)
Just a short drive from Otranto, these serene freshwater lakes are surrounded by lush Mediterranean vegetation and are perfect for nature lovers. You can take a boat ride, swim in the crystal-clear waters, or simply enjoy the peaceful environment.Bauxite Quarry (Cava di Bauxite)
Located just outside Otranto, this abandoned bauxite mine has transformed into an extraordinary natural landscape. The vibrant red soil, contrasting with the turquoise waters in the basin, creates a surreal and photogenic setting. It’s a short hike from the town, making it an easy and striking excursion.Grotta della Poesia (Cave of Poetry)
About 15 kilometers from Otranto, this natural limestone cave is famous for its clear, turquoise waters and stunning surroundings. The cave is popular for swimming, and you can jump into the sea from the rocks, feeling like a true adventurer in this ancient spot.Lecce
A little further inland (about 40 minutes by car), Lecce is a baroque masterpiece often referred to as the "Florence of the South." With its ornate churches, palaces, and winding streets, Lecce is a must-visit for those interested in history, architecture, and culture.Santa Maria di Leuca
At the southernmost tip of Puglia, where the Ionian and Adriatic seas meet, Santa Maria di Leuca is known for its dramatic cliffs and historic lighthouse. The town also boasts ancient Roman ruins, beautiful beaches, and the stunning Basilica of Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae.The Coastal Towns of the Salento Peninsula
Otranto is nestled within the Salento Peninsula, which is dotted with beautiful seaside towns. Gallipoli, with its charming historic center and sandy beaches, is only about an hour away by car. Porto Cesareo, known for its stunning marine reserve, is also within easy reach, offering visitors clear waters perfect for snorkeling and swimming.
From the ancient ruins to the stunning coastline, Otranto and its surroundings offer an enchanting mix of history, culture, and natural beauty, making it an unforgettable destination for any traveler.
Morning Swim: A Crystal Clear Awakening
The day begins early in Otranto, with the golden sun stretching across the Adriatic. Imagine stepping out of your cozy Airbnb in the heart of the Old Town—an apartment with ancient stone walls and colorful shutters—and taking a leisurely walk to the beach. The scent of saltwater fills the air, and you can already hear the gentle lapping of waves against the shore. As you dip your toes into the cool, clear water, you’ll find that the sea here is so transparent it feels like you’re floating in liquid sapphire.
The beach in Otranto isn’t just a place to swim; it’s a perfect spot to simply be. The morning sun sparkles on the water, casting a magical glow over everything. Whether you prefer to swim, float, or just watch the world go by from the shore, this is the kind of place where you’ll feel your stress melt away with every wave.
Stay in the Heart of the Old Town
After your morning swim, it’s time to retreat to your charming Airbnb in the old town, where narrow cobblestone streets wind their way between sun-soaked buildings, and the air hums with the sound of locals chatting over espresso. Choose a traditional stone apartment or a sleek modern space with a touch of rustic charm, all within walking distance of Otranto's sights, shops, and cafes.
Imagine stepping out onto your little balcony to take in the view—a patchwork of terracotta roofs, pale stone walls, and the shimmering expanse of the Adriatic in the distance. It’s an unbeatable setting to start your day with a fresh pastry and coffee from a nearby bakery (don’t miss the pasticciotti, a delicious local custard-filled treat).
Strolling the Promenade: A Beautiful, Breezy Escape
With your base set in the center of the old town, you’re just moments away from one of the town's most delightful features: the scenic promenade. Take a stroll along the waterfront, where the gentle sea breeze ruffles your hair and the horizon stretches into infinity. The walk is dotted with benches, so take your time and pause to enjoy the view—whether it’s a fisherman casting his net or the ever-changing colors of the water. The promenade is just as beautiful in the evening when the sky turns into a canvas of pinks and purples, and the sound of the waves becomes a gentle lullaby.
Seafood Galore: Feast by the Sea
Otranto is a food lover’s paradise, especially if you love fresh seafood. The town’s restaurants are brimming with mouthwatering dishes that celebrate the bounty of the Adriatic. Picture yourself dining at a seaside trattoria, where the sound of the waves accompanies every bite of freshly grilled fish, succulent shellfish, and delicious tartars
One of the standout dishes? Otranto’s signature seafood risotto—rich, creamy, and brimming with the freshest catches of the day. Wash it all down with a crisp local white wine, perhaps a chilled Vermentino or a Fiano, which pairs perfectly with the sea flavors.
But it's not just about the food—it’s about the atmosphere. The restaurants here are lively, often with locals gathered for long, leisurely meals, and the streets around the town square come alive with chatter, music, and laughter. Otranto has a warm, welcoming vibe that invites you to linger, sip your wine a little longer, and enjoy the rhythm of the town.
Fun for the Whole Family: Playgrounds and Carousel Magic
Otranto is also a fantastic place for families, with plenty of activities that will keep kids of all ages entertained. In the heart of the old town, there’s a charming playground where little ones can run free among the ancient stone buildings. It’s not just a place to play; it’s a place where history and joy meet. Kids can climb, swing, and giggle while parents can sip a coffee at a nearby café, keeping an eye on the action.
And when the evening comes, the magic continues with a carousel that springs to life in the town center. The soft, glowing lights and cheerful music invite families to hop on for a ride, creating a sense of nostalgia and wonder. It’s the kind of moment that makes you feel like you’re part of something timeless—a tradition that families have enjoyed for generations.
History, Culture, and Views: What to See and Do
While Otranto is undeniably relaxing, it also has a rich history that’s worth exploring. Spend an afternoon wandering the cobblestone streets and exploring the town’s many historical landmarks.
The Cathedral of Otranto: A must-see, this 11th-century cathedral is famous for its stunning mosaic floor, which depicts scenes from the Garden of Eden to the Final Judgment. It’s a mesmerizing work of art, and the church itself is a peaceful retreat from the bustling streets.
Castello Aragonese (Aragonese Castle): Towering over the town, this 15th-century fortress offers panoramic views of Otranto and the surrounding coastline. You can walk along the castle’s walls, explore its many rooms, and even visit the small museum housed within. The castle is especially magical at sunset, when the sky turns a deep shade of orange.
The Bauxite Quarry: Just outside the town lies a surreal landscape that feels straight out of a dream. The Bauxite Quarry, with its rich red earth and turquoise waters, is an otherworldly sight—perfect for a short hike and some stunning photos.
In Conclusion: Why Otranto?
Otranto is one of those rare places where you can be completely at peace, yet never bored. Whether you’re swimming in the impossibly clear sea, dining on the freshest seafood, strolling along the promenade, or watching your kids enjoy the carousel, there’s always something to make you smile.
This town, full of history, beauty, and an infectious joie de vivre, will steal your heart. So pack your bags, grab your sunscreen, and get ready for an adventure that’s as colorful and welcoming as the town itself. Otranto is calling—and it’s waiting to sweep you off your feet.
Puglia Masseria Stays
Masseria Tenuta Yala (Parabita)
Experience the Charm of a Masseria Stay in Puglia
Imagine waking up to the soft rustle of olive trees, with the scent of wild rosemary drifting in the air and golden sunlight warming the historic stones of a centuries-old farmhouse. This is the essence of a holiday spent in a Masseria in Puglia, a region in Italy that perfectly blends rustic simplicity with refined elegance. If you are ever planning a holiday in Puglia, staying in a masseria which is a restored farm-like hotel makes the holiday that much more special. We usually like to mix our locations by staying in a hotel or air b&b in the city and then a couple of masseria’s in the countryside.
A Masseria is more than just a place to stay; it's a gateway to understanding Puglia’s deep-rooted connection with the land. These traditional fortified farmhouses, dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries, were originally built as working farms, complete with orchards, vineyards, and sprawling olive groves. Today, many have been lovingly restored to welcome travelers, offering a unique blend of luxury and authenticity.
Living Off the Land Staying in a Masseria immerses you in the practice of living off the land, a tradition that is central to Puglian culture. From farm-to-table dining experiences that feature seasonal produce harvested directly from the estate, to the opportunity to participate in olive-picking or learn about local winemaking, visitors can taste and feel the life of rural Italy. The meals are often prepared using old family recipes, highlighting the simplicity and bold flavors of the region—ripe tomatoes, fresh burrata, handmade orecchiette pasta, and, of course, the robust local olive oil.
Beauty and Comfort of Renovated Farmhouses Many Masserie have undergone stunning transformations. While preserving their thick stone walls, vaulted ceilings, and traditional courtyards, these farmhouses have been updated with modern comforts such as infinity pools, spa facilities, and beautifully designed rooms that blend traditional Puglian decor with chic, minimalist aesthetics. The charm lies in how the past and present coexist: aged stone arches frame contemporary lounges, and antique wooden doors open into serene bedrooms with views of fields stretching to the horizon.
Masseria Tenuta Yala (Parabita)
This time on our holiday we stayed at Masseria Tenuta Yala (Parabita) & Masseria Lama San Giorgio in Rutigliano. In the last years, we have also stayed in a spa masseria called Relais Histo (in Taranto), Masseria Potenti and Masseria Palombara, which have all been lovely. Masseria Potenti and Palombara have been my favourites.
We wanted to try new masserias this time on holiday: The beauty about Masseria Tenuta Yala, was that we had our own little house in the grounds and the main house was used for dining. The house was so cosy and visually beautiful with its own terraces overlooking the vinyard, which was a real highlight. It felt really private and easy with a toddler, and it was special having a glass of wine and eating cheeses overlooking the sunset before dinner time. There were a lot of animals in this property too, from birds (ducks, geese, chickens and a turkey), to goats, horses, cats and dogs. We made it a thing to go visit the animals and feed them which was a highlight for our son. We will for sure be returning here again.
From this masseria we visited a coastal town called Santa Maria al Bagno for lunch along with another town called Nardó.
sunset overlooking the vinyard from our house rooftop terrace
Masseria Lama San Giorgio in Rutigliano
Masseria Lama San Giorgio in Rutigliano
This masseria had more families as guests then the preivous hotel. This may be due to the fact that, the grounds had a massive playground (thankfully placed on the side so it did not affect the visuals) which was a big hit for children. This masseria had a lovely pool and a nice room, but I did prefer the mini house more in the previous masseria as it just felt more private. The main masseria was a beautiful old manner surrounded by vineyard. If you stay here, make sure to book a private candle light dinner has the room is lovely where they serve the dinner. From this masseria we visited the town of Monopoli for a lunch as a daytime trip.
Here is a list of other notable Masseria hotels in Puglia, known for offering luxurious stays in historic and rustic countryside settings:
Masseria Torre Maizza, a Rocco Forte Hotel (Savelletri di Fasano) – A luxurious resort offering refined accommodations, beautiful olive groves, and elegant amenities.
Masseria San Domenico (Savelletri) – A high-end masseria known for its traditional architecture, spa, golf course, and proximity to the Adriatic Sea.
Masseria Torre Coccaro (Savelletri di Fasano) – A charming and luxurious property offering a mix of modern comforts and historic charm, with a private beach club and farm-to-table dining.
Borgo Egnazia (Savelletri di Fasano) – While not a masseria in the strictest sense, it is inspired by the traditional Apulian village design and is famous for its luxury, spa, and world-class service.
Masseria Montenapoleone (Pezzapane) – A unique and rustic hotel set amidst olive trees, known for its authentic atmosphere and eco-friendly focus.
Masseria Salinola (Ostuni) – A charming masseria that combines traditional elements with modern amenities, ideal for those seeking a more intimate stay.
Masseria Trapana (Lecce) – An elegant and exclusive property with a rich history, surrounded by lush gardens and offering luxury accommodations.
Masseria Potenti (Manduria) – A beautifully restored farmhouse known for its family-run warmth, organic gardens, and picturesque surroundings.
Masseria Le Carrube (Ostuni) – A peaceful retreat surrounded by olive trees and offering traditional cuisine and serene views.
Masseria Cervarolo (Ostuni) – A boutique-style hotel that combines rustic charm with modern luxury, featuring trulli and unique interior design.
Masseria Moroseta (Ostuni) – A modern, minimalist masseria set in olive groves, known for its stylish design, wellness offerings, and panoramic views of the sea.
Masseria Palombara (Oria) – A charming adults-only masseria offering an authentic, serene experience with organic gardens, a focus on sustainability, and a tranquil atmosphere.
A Common Sight in Puglia The rolling landscapes of Puglia are peppered with these iconic structures, each with its own unique story and character. They are as much a part of the region’s identity as the trulli houses of Alberobello or the dazzling Baroque architecture of Lecce. Whether you choose a coastal Masseria with sea breezes or one nestled in the countryside surrounded by olive trees, you’ll find that staying in a Masseria embodies the heart and soul of Puglia—its hospitality, its flavors, and its timeless beauty.
If you're dreaming of a vacation that combines history, comfort, and a true taste of Italian life, a stay in a Masseria in Puglia is an experience that will leave you with cherished memories and a deeper appreciation for the art of slow living.
3 days in Vieste
Vieste Travel Guide: Discovering a Hidden Gem on the Gargano Peninsula
We arrived to Vieste from Bari and stayed here for the next three days from our two week holiday. Vieste, a charming and less touristy town located on the Gargano Peninsula in Puglia, is the perfect spot for travelers seeking a peaceful coastal escape. Famous for its whitewashed buildings, crystal-clear waters, and delicious cuisine, Vieste offers an authentic Italian experience away from the crowds. With a maze of narrow streets, incredible coastal views, and some of the best seafood in the region, Vieste is a destination to savor slowly.
This was our third time visiting Vieste, there is something about this little place that draws us back to it. We stayed in such a lovely air b&b, about 100m from our favourite restaurant box 19. There was also a lovely little playground close to us, where we loved to take our little boy. In the evenings before dinner, there was a carusel in the park, which was a must little activity for the little one. Also, it was nice to see that all the same old restaurants are still up and running all these years later, which stands as a testament for their quality.
Exploring Vieste: The Whitewashed Town
Vieste’s historic center, perched on a rocky promontory jutting into the Adriatic Sea, is characterized by narrow alleys, whitewashed houses, and winding staircases. Strolling through the old town feels like stepping back in time, with charming streets that invite you to explore.
Begin at the Vieste Cathedral, a 12th-century Romanesque church located in the heart of the old town. Its beautiful bell tower and historic interior make it a worthwhile visit.
Castello Svevo, an imposing medieval castle built by Frederick II, dominates the landscape and offers panoramic views over the coast. The castle is still used for military purposes, but parts of it are accessible to visitors.
Pizzomunno Beach, named after the large limestone monolith that rises from the sand, is a lovely spot to relax. The golden sandy beach and turquoise waters provide an ideal setting for sunbathing and swimming.
As you wander through the historic district, you'll also encounter quaint shops selling local products like olive oil, handmade ceramics, and traditional Puglian pastries.
Vieste & the delicious food
Culinary Delights
Vieste is a food lover’s paradise, with its culinary scene focusing on fresh seafood, locally sourced ingredients, and traditional Puglian flavors. Restaurant box 19 is our favourite seafood restaurant of Vieste, either order the lobster pasta or the fish soup and you will not be dissapointed. I mean, just look at the size of the fish soup in the image above? We also ate at La Ripa, that had a delicious tasting menu (slightly more fine dining) and Al Dragone, another great restaurants that has been around all the years we have visited Vieste.
Seafront and Beaches
Vieste’s location on the Gargano Peninsula means it's surrounded by some of the most stunning coastline in Italy. The town offers a range of beautiful beaches to suit all preferences:
Spiaggia del Castello: Located close to the town center, this sandy beach stretches for several kilometers and is popular for its gentle waves and family-friendly atmosphere. The iconic Pizzomunno rock is located here, adding to the beach's picturesque appeal.
Baia delle Zagare: About 30 minutes from Vieste by car, this beach is famous for its sea stacks—tall, rocky formations that rise from the clear water. The beach is framed by high cliffs, making it one of the most scenic spots on the peninsula.
Cala San Felice: A more secluded option, Cala San Felice is a small cove with turquoise waters surrounded by lush greenery. It's a great place for a quiet swim or snorkeling.
Things to See and Do Around Vieste
While Vieste itself has plenty to offer, there are also excellent day trips and excursions to enjoy in the surrounding area:
Visit the Foresta Umbra: Located in the heart of the Gargano National Park, this lush forest is a great escape for nature lovers. Enjoy a hike or a bike ride through the trails, where you can spot wildlife like deer and wild boars.
Boat Tour to Sea Caves: The coast around Vieste is dotted with stunning sea caves and grottoes, which can be explored by boat. Local boat tours will take you into these magical spots, where you can see impressive rock formations and swim in crystal-clear waters.
Excursion to Monte Sant’Angelo: A short drive from Vieste, this historic hilltop town is famous for the Sanctuary of Monte Sant’Angelo, a UNESCO World Heritage site and a major pilgrimage destination. The town's medieval atmosphere and spectacular views are worth the visit.
3 days in Bari, the old town
Bari Vecchia, the heart of Bari's old town, offers an authentic Italian experience filled with winding narrow streets, historic charm, delicious food, and stunning seaside views. Despite having visited Puglia numerous towns, Bari was one place we always missed. We wanted to explore new places and could not have been any happier with our choice. It felt safe, clean and we located in the old town in a cosy air b&b, where we could smell the espresso in the mornings lingering into our room through the balcony, from a cafe downstairs. Bari Vecchia, the ancient part of the city, is a maze of cobbled alleys, hidden piazzas, and historic landmarks. Here, life unfolds at a leisurely pace, with locals sitting outside their homes, making fresh orecchiette pasta, and chatting in the squares. It's the perfect place for a stroll and soaking in the local atmosphere. Bari is a lively city, close to the airport, makes a great base for three days to explore the area. We were also lucky because a big circus was in town so we took our son to a fantastic show with elephants, tigers and talented acrobats. Have a look at our full two week itinerary to see how we planned our route. After our three days, we drove to Vieste and stayed there for the next three days.
Santa Maria del Buon Consiglio- remains of a 10th century church
Short Introduction to Bari
Bari, the capital of Italy's Puglia region, boasts a rich history dating back over 2,000 years. Founded by the ancient Greeks, Bari flourished under Roman rule as an important port and trading center. During the Middle Ages, the city became a significant religious hub, especially after the relics of St. Nicholas were brought to the Basilica di San Nicola in 1087, attracting pilgrims from around the world. Throughout its history, Bari was influenced by various cultures, including the Normans, Byzantines, and Swabians, which shaped its architectural and cultural landscape.
Today, Bari is worth visiting for its blend of history, authentic Italian culture, and coastal beauty. The charming old town, Bari Vecchia, with its narrow streets, historic churches, and medieval castle, offers a glimpse into the city's storied past. Its picturesque seafront promenade, Lungomare Nazario Sauro, provides stunning views of the Adriatic Sea, perfect for leisurely strolls. Bari's vibrant food scene, featuring fresh seafood, handmade pasta, and local wines, also draws culinary enthusiasts. With its lively atmosphere, historic landmarks, and beautiful coast, Bari offers an authentic and diverse Italian experience.
Start your exploration at Piazza del Ferrarese, a bustling square where old and new come together. From here, you can walk up the stone stairs to reach the Cattedrale di San Sabino, a stunning Romanesque cathedral with impressive architectural details.
Basilica di San Nicola is another must-visit in Bari Vecchia, renowned for its Byzantine-style architecture and as the resting place of St. Nicholas. It’s a significant pilgrimage site, especially for Orthodox Christians.
As you wander, don’t miss the Arco Basso alley, where local women still make the traditional orecchiette pasta by hand. You can watch them skillfully shape the pasta or even buy some to take home as a unique souvenir.
Piazza del Ferrarese
Bari's Seafront: Lungomare Nazario Sauro
After exploring the labyrinthine streets of Bari Vecchia, head to Lungomare Nazario Sauro, Bari’s famous seafront promenade. It stretches for several kilometers along the Adriatic Sea, providing breathtaking views of the blue waters, fishing boats, and historic architecture. The promenade is perfect for a leisurely walk or a bike ride, especially during sunset when the sky turns shades of pink and orange.
The Teatro Margherita, an old theater on the seafront that now serves as an art gallery, is also worth a stop. The theater is built on stilts over the water, providing an interesting blend of culture and scenery.
Things to See and Do
Apart from wandering the streets and enjoying the culinary delights, there are other attractions to explore in Bari:
Castello Normanno-Svevo: A 12th-century Norman-Swabian castle located near Bari Vecchia, it houses exhibitions and offers a glimpse into the city's history.
Pinacoteca Metropolitana di Bari: An art gallery featuring works by local artists from the 11th century onward, including a notable collection of medieval paintings.
Piazza Mercantile: Another picturesque square in the old town, where you can relax at a café and enjoy a cup of coffee or an aperitivo.
Day Trip to Torre Canne: Seafood and Swimming
For a day trip from Bari, head to Torre Canne, a small coastal town located about an hour away by car. It’s known for its sandy beaches and tranquil atmosphere, offering a perfect escape from the city. We drove to Torre Canne, simply because il principe di Mare is one of our favourite seafood restaurants. Also the restaurant is located on a road with many quiet beaches that is lovely for an after lunch dip.
Il Principe di Mare Restaurant: This cosy seafood restaurant is an absolute must-visit in Torre Canne. Situated right by the sea, the restaurant serves an array of fresh seafood dishes, from grilled fish to raw seafood platters. It is known for it’s delicious sea urchins that come right from the waters in front of you. The atmosphere is laid-back, with outdoor seating that allows you to enjoy the sea breeze as you dine.
Swimming Spot Near the Restaurant: After a delicious meal, take a dip in the crystal-clear waters next to the restaurant. The beach is sandy and the water is shallow, making it ideal for a refreshing swim.
Bari is an ideal destination for a 3-day getaway, offering a perfect mix of history, culture, and relaxation. With its charming old town of Bari Vecchia, beautiful seafront promenade, and rich culinary traditions, the city provides an authentic taste of Southern Italy. You can explore historic landmarks like the Basilica di San Nicola, enjoy fresh seafood at local restaurants, and take leisurely walks along the scenic coastline. The day trip options, such as Torre Canne for beach time and fantastic seafood, add to the variety of experiences. Bari’s blend of historic charm, coastal beauty, and delicious food makes it a captivating destination for a short but memorable stay.
2 week Guide to Puglia
The beautiful whitewashed town of Vieste
Two week trip to Puglia staying in six different towns for versatility
It has been a good 5 years since we have been to Puglia the last time, so we thought it would be lovely to have our next holiday back down south of Italy. We traveled in the end of September for two weeks and we could not have been any luckier with the weather. It was about 26 degrees every single day but not as terribly hot as during the mid of summer. As per usual, we rented a car and traveled to different towns and a couple of masseria’s (typical farm house hotels) so we would maximise seeing different places. I wanted to share this itinerary with you guys, incase you are interested in traveling the same route.
Often we fly to Rome and drive down to Puglia, but this time we flew straight to Bari and stayed here for the first three days. We traveled with our almost three year old, so this trip is perfectly suitable for children too. We traveled from Bari- Vieste- Masseria-Masseria- Otranto and Cisternino. We have been to Puglia 4 times before and have visited many of the towns in the region and this time around, we could not have been any more happier with our route of choice.
Short Introduction to Why you should visit Puglia
Puglia, also known as Apulia, is a stunning region in southern Italy that forms the heel of Italy's "boot." It is renowned for its picturesque landscapes, charming villages, and historic architecture. The region boasts a coastline with crystal-clear turquoise waters, sandy beaches, and dramatic cliffs along both the Adriatic and Ionian Seas.
Puglia is also famous for its distinctive whitewashed hilltop towns, such as Ostuni and unique conical-roofed houses called "trulli" found in Alberobello. Its rich history is evident in ancient sites like the Castel del Monte and Baroque architecture in cities like Lecce. The region's delicious cuisine, featuring fresh seafood, local olive oil, and traditional dishes like orecchiette pasta, adds to its charm. The Adriatic sea is crystal clear to swim in and the beautiful countryside landscape makes the region ideal for road trips. Stay inland or on the coast for contrasted beauty and visit traditional masseria’s that are stunning farm hotels.
Bari
We stayed in Bari for the first three nights. We hadn’t been to Bari before but was positively surprised what a lively vibrant city it was. We stayed in an air B&B right in the heart of the old town (which is usually where we aim to be when we travel) called Bari Vecchia. We had a sweet little room with a balcony straight into a busy narrow street that was full of vegetable shops and cafes. When deciding where to stay, we often google the restaurant selection and when you notice there are a lot of good looking restaurants, that often persuades us to stay in the area. With this method, we have found a lot of great places, like Montefalco in Umbria.
Bari, the capital of the Puglia region in southern Italy, is a vibrant port city that beautifully blends history with modernity. Its heart lies in the old town, known as Bari Vecchia, a maze of narrow, winding streets filled with character. This historic quarter is famous for its medieval architecture, ancient churches, and lively atmosphere. At the center stands the Basilica of San Nicola, a stunning 12th-century church that houses the relics of Saint Nicholas, making it a significant pilgrimage site.
Bari Vecchia's charm also lies in its authenticity; local residents can often be seen making fresh pasta by hand, and there are plenty of small cafes and trattorias where you can savor traditional Apulian dishes. The old town's seaside promenade, Lungomare, offers beautiful views of the Adriatic Sea and is perfect for an evening stroll. With our luck, there was an amazing circus in town that we went to see with our little boy creating the most amazing memories.
Insiders tip:
Make a day trip to Torre Canne (30min drive from Bari) for the most amazing seafood lunch at Il Principe del mare, where you can have fresh sea urchins straight from the sea from infront of you. We have been coming to this restaurant every time we visit Puglia. The restaurant is located on a road that is full of secluded beaches, where you can catch a few families swimming or fishing and strongly encourage you to go swimming after the lunch. Our son loved collecting rocks by the water and it was amazing to dip our feet into the water after lunch.
You may need a reservation as the place fills up fairly quickly
Seafront of Vieste
Vieste
After Bari, we drove to Vieste for the next three days that is one of our favourite places to visit. With amazing restaurants this cosy whitewashed town is a breath of fresh air. The drive here is beautiful and we stayed in a beautiful air b&b with 2 balconies in perfect location.
Vieste is a charming seaside town located on the Gargano Peninsula in northern Puglia, known for its dramatic coastal scenery and historic charm. Perched on a rocky promontory jutting into the Adriatic Sea, Vieste boasts stunning white cliffs, hidden caves, and some of the region's most beautiful beaches, such as Spiaggia del Castello and Pizzomunno Beach, famous for its towering limestone monolith.
The town's historic center is a labyrinth of narrow, cobbled streets, whitewashed houses, and ancient churches, like the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. Its medieval atmosphere, highlighted by the Vieste Castle, offers a glimpse into the past, while the panoramic views of the sea are breathtaking.
Vieste's blend of natural beauty, historical charm, and laid-back atmosphere makes it an ideal destination for those seeking both relaxation and adventure on Italy's stunning coastline.
Pizzomunno Beach famous for the limestone rock
Masseria Tenuta Yala (located in Parabita)
Our next 2 night stay was in a farm hotel called Masseria Tenuta Yala located in Parabita. This masseria was unique to our previous masseria stays, as we actaully had our own little house in the land which made the stay extra special and private. Our house overlooked the vineyard where we enjoyed a glass of wine and cheeses before having dinner at the main house. This place also had a lot of animals like horses, cats ducks, goats and a play area for children. The pool was wonderfully relaxing and the area was beautiful. We will surely be returning here again.
From the masseria, we visited a few new places like a small coastal town called Santa Maria al Bagno and Nardó. When we left from here to our new masseria, we also visited Grottaglie town ( famous ceramic town in Puglia) as we wanted to order new ceramics for home.
The view of main house where dinner and breakfast is served
Masseria Lama San Giorgio in Rutigliano
We stayed in this masseria for a few nights that is also located in a vineyard and where they make their own olive oil. This masseria had a huge playground (on the side of their premises) so you could tell, it had more families with children here. We stayed in their suite, but to be honest I found the previous masseria setup slightly more cosy. So between these two, I would opt for the first choice even though this one was lovely too. The poolside was beautiful and so was the masseria. When we left from here to Otranto, we stopped at Ostuni for lunch. We also visited Monopoli and Polignano A Mare from this masseria.
The main Masseria where breakfast and dinner is served
Otranto
Otranto is a picturesque coastal town located on the easternmost tip of Italy, in the Salento region of Puglia. It is known for its stunning turquoise waters, white sandy beaches, and rich history. The town's charm lies in its blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage, with a fascinating mix of Greek, Roman, and Byzantine influences. Otranto is one of our favourite little towns. We stayed in a lovely air B&B right on the main pathways of the old town, again ideal located with a sweet balcony. The water in Otranto is just breathtaking and this was my favourite place to go swimming.
The historic center is characterized by narrow streets, whitewashed buildings, and landmarks like the Otranto Cathedral, famous for its impressive 12th-century mosaic floor depicting the Tree of Life. The Aragonese Castle, a historic fortress overlooking the sea, adds to the town's allure. The nearby Baia dei Turchi and the dramatic Faraglioni di Sant'Andrea offer beautiful coastal scenery for nature lovers.
With its crystal-clear waters, historic architecture, and relaxed atmosphere, Otranto is an ideal place to experience the authentic charm of southern Italy while enjoying the natural beauty of the Adriatic coast. Lastly, it must be noticed that all the towns we visited have a lovely playground for children, very clean and safe which was great and most places even had carousels which came alive in the evenings when it got dark. We made it a thing to go on these rides before dinner to ware out some energy from the little one.
Sunset in Otranto
This picture does not do justice to the clear water but this was a cute little spot to let our son play in the shallow water
Cisternino
Our last spot of the trip was Cisternino, a small town inland close to other famous towns like Martina Franca, Locorotondo, Ostuni, Ceglie Messapica. We decided to make Cisternino our last spot, because we have only visited it once before for lunch. It is known for being a meat-lovers area, so it was a nice change after all the seafood and fish we indulged during the trip.
Cisternino is a charming hilltop town in the heart of the Itria Valley in Puglia, known for its whitewashed houses, narrow streets, and stunning views of the surrounding countryside dotted with ancient olive groves and trulli (traditional stone huts with conical roofs). The town exudes a timeless atmosphere, with its historic center resembling a labyrinth of stone archways, courtyards, and quaint balconies adorned with flowers.
Cisternino is famous for its unique culinary tradition of fornelli, small butcher shops that grill meat to order, allowing visitors to enjoy authentic, freshly cooked dishes. The town's tranquil ambiance, combined with its traditional architecture and culinary delights, makes it a perfect destination for those seeking a peaceful and authentic Puglian experience. One evening we ate a 1.5kg dry aged steak (just the two of us) that was so delicious!
With its blend of historic charm, stunning vistas, and vibrant local culture, Cisternino offers a true taste of southern Italy's rustic beauty. From Cisternino we drove back to Bari airport, which is a short easy drive.
If you ever get a chance to visit Puglia, defiantly make your base in a few different places both on the coast and inland. Blend in some masseria stays to give you that special experience.
Other masseria’s that I loved staying in: Masseria Palombara & Masseria Potenti.
Our air b&b was on this street, which was the gateway to the old town of Cisternino
A scenic route from Puglia to Provence
Travelling by car is the best way to get everything out your holiday as this gives you the freedom to travel to se many different destinations. My husband and I have been exploring this way for the last nine years and it makes the holiday feel extra special as you are constantly greeted with new exciting places making the holiday feel much longer. We stayed almost three weeks and decided to fly from Italy to Provence for a change of scenery and even stayed a few nights in the French alps, just an hour away from Mount Blanc. Below you can see the travel route, we stayed in 8 destinations as a base, but visited many idyllic towns during our stay.
‘The scenic travel route from Southern Italy to Provence’
Travelling by car is the best way to get everything out your holiday as this gives you the freedom to travel to se many different destinations. My husband and I have been exploring this way for the last nine years and it makes the holiday feel extra special as you are constantly greeted with new exciting places making the holiday feel much longer. We stayed almost three weeks and decided to fly from Italy to Provence for a change of scenery and even stayed a few nights in the French alps, just an hour away from Mount Blanc. Below you can see the travel route, we stayed in 8 destinations as a base, but visited many idyllic towns during our stay.
In Provence most of the “beautiful villages” are very close to each other (20 minutes away) so visiting them makes it really easy and in Puglia the towns are a bit further, but for sure very manageable via car. If you are planning a trip to Puglia, there are so many beautiful places to stay in, but our locations were strategic this time as I had a photoshoot with Masseria Palombara hence we planned our stay around that. We wanted to visit Vieste and Lecce as it has been four years since it was the last time we were there and Tivoli as it’s relatively close to the airport as our flight left really early, but werent eager to locate in Rome. So here goes, a little introduction of each town through my lens.
Itenary from Puglia to Provence
Flight Helsinki-Rome
Vieste
Oria- Masseria Palombara (Cisternino, Gallipolli)
Lecce
Tivoli
Flight: Rome-Nice
Lourmarin (Cucuron, Ansouis)
Annecy
Uzes (Saint Remy de Provence, Gordes, Menerbes)
Malaucene- Le Pont de Lórme (Roussillon, Les Baux-de-Provence, Gigondas)
Flight Nice-Helsinki
Vieste
Nestled along the sun-kissed shores of the Adriatic, Vieste emerges as a captivating coastal gem with its iconic white-washed charm. The town's enchanting old quarter, embraced by limestone walls, unfolds a story of centuries past. Quaint restaurants line the narrow streets, offering a culinary journey where every bite is a celebration of local flavors. Amidst the maze-like alleys, the scent of hanging laundry wafts through the air, creating a sensory tapestry that encapsulates the timeless allure of southern Italy. Yet, the true pièce de résistance lies in Vieste's azure waters, whose majestic turquoise hues beckon visitors to indulge in the serenity of the sea. Undoubtedly, Vieste is a sensory symphony where history, gastronomy, and natural beauty harmonize to create an unforgettable coastal experience.
‘Slow living in Masseria Palombara with visual stimulation ‘
This chic masseria made the perfect resting point with its all around photogenic corners, dreamy breakfast & poolside relaxation. We were fortunate enough to pick fresh vegetables from the garden at sunrise, eat amazing foods and soak up the slow lifestyle under the hot sun.
We also visited Cisternino & Gallipolli during our stay-
‘Lecce that is often referred red to as the Florence of the South’
We haven’t visited Lecce in four years and it still remains the same as before. Stay at Mantatelure & enjoy the numerous wine bars in the old city and soak up the rich baroque architecture.
Lecce, a radiant jewel in the heart of Italy's southern region of Puglia, boasts a rich tapestry of history, art, and architectural splendor. Often referred to as the "Florence of the South," Lecce is renowned for its exquisitely ornate Baroque architecture, which adorns its churches, palaces, and public squares. The city's limestone buildings, carved into intricate facades and adorned with elaborate sculptures, create a mesmerizing ambiance that transports visitors to a bygone era. Beyond its architectural marvels, Lecce offers a vibrant cultural scene, bustling with charming cafes, local markets, and artisan workshops. This captivating city seamlessly blends its ancient roots with a lively contemporary spirit, making Lecce a must-visit destination for those seeking an immersive journey through Italy's cultural and historical wonders.
Tivoli
Before heading to the airport in Rome, we stayed an hour away in Tivoli. If you are looking for the real life secret gardens, Ville d’Este it is. The hilltop Tivoli is home to 2 Unesco heritage sites filled with lavish fountains, manicured gardens & a cute medieval old town. Stay in cozy Al Palazzetto for the most relaxing sleep! We flew from Rome to Nice and drove to Lourmarin for our first stay in Provence.
‘The chic little Lourmarin’
I felt this to be the quintessential Provence & possibly my favourite town of the region. The elegant little town has a small square where everyone gathers for day time pale rosé, boeuf tartare after a leisurely stroll around the little boutique-filled town. Watch locals compete over pe´tanque and find the little winding streets to be the most beautiful. We stayed in a cute B&B, run by the cutest elderly couple, where we woke up to the smell of fresh coffee and warm flaking croissants that were placed on our window sill.
We also visited the morning markets of Cucuron and had lunch in the town of Ansouis.
Annecy
‘Annecy, the Venice of France’
Ready to indulge in cheese and then a little bit more of it? The typical alp-style chalet village fills with pubs, fondue and raclette restaurants along with stunning canals and views of the mountains. If you are skiing in Chamonix in the winter, I would definitely visit Annecy as a day trip as it is only an hour away from there. This little gingerbread town serves the best raclette for sure.
Uzes
‘The market-filled dreamy Uzes’
Nestled in the picturesque region of Occitanie in southern France, Uzès stands as a charming medieval town with a rich tapestry of history and timeless allure. Renowned as the "First Duchy of France," Uzès boasts a well-preserved medieval core, characterized by narrow cobblestone streets, medieval architecture, and the iconic Place aux Herbes, a lively square surrounded by elegant facades and vibrant markets. The town is crowned by the impressive Uzès Ducal Castle, a historic masterpiece that offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes. As visitors meander through Uzès, they are enchanted by its quaint boutiques, inviting cafes, and the undeniable sense of authenticity that pervades every corner. With a unique blend of heritage and contemporary charm, Uzès invites exploration and promises an immersive journey into the heart of Provence's cultural and architectural treasures.
The town of dreamy markets, decadent Michelin star restaurants with the best escargot of the trip. I loved the feeling in Uzes, place aux Herbes, the square were everyone gathered for an early-evening drink. I found great linen, lavender soaps and home sprays from the morning market along with a handmade porcelain bowl, a fossil stone paperweight and jewelry box from the antique market.
We also visited Saint Remy de Provence, Gordes & Menerbes from Uzes
Saint Remy de Provence
Malaucene- Le Pont de Lórme
We stayed in chateau Le Pont de Lorme that was right on the edge of Malaucene’s old town, as our last stop of the trip. To be honest, we didn’t discover that much of the town as we visited many other little ones like Roussillon from here. We loved the design hotel that revolved entirely around the kitchen.
Roussillon
Puglian Mornings
Nestled comfortably in the embrace of a terrace chair at Masseria Palombara in Southern Italy, I find solace in the symphony of morning songbirds heralding another day in paradise. It's the early hours, around 7 am, and with my husband still nestled in our room, I relish this tranquil interlude before the day's bustling cadence begins. Delicate butterflies alight on rosemary bushes, bathed in the soft glow of the morning sun, while wildflowers gracefully dance to the whispers of a cherished breeze.
The citrus-scented air carries the promise of a new day, painting green oranges on nearby trees with the warm hues of sunrise. As the sunlight gradually ascends to the heavens, I've fashioned a charming pre-breakfast sanctuary on our terrace – a reading nook adorned with a steaming cup of black tea and an indulgent slice of freshly baked almond ricotta cake. The almonds, plucked and sun-dried from the on-site grove, infuse the cake with a robust earthiness, complementing the tangy sweetness with a rich woody flavor.
Sipping from an exquisitely crafted cup, I lose myself in the pages of my book, allowing the morning to unfold at its own unhurried pace. These early hours are nothing short of magnificent – a blend of tranquility and warmth, embodying the quintessential southern charm. In this haven of morning bliss, each sip of tea, every morsel of cake, becomes a celebration of the simple and profound beauty that defines the dawn in Southern Italy.
‘Immersion of all senses, Masseria Palombara’
Puglia, wildly preserved with authenticity is a beautiful world of its own that only has opened its doors to the rest of us in the past decade or so. In May, the fields scatter with wild flowers, in June the wheat ripens, August is full of figs, September brings the start of grape harvest and October brings olives. The Italian heel is a collection of white-washed towns with narrow streets where handmade Orecchiette exists and is home to seductive luxury farmhouses. Tucked away in the countryside of Oria is a picture-esq escape, Masseria Palombara, a chic leisurely resort, where simplicity blends into humble elegance.
‘The hidden gem shows Puglia in all its authentic beauty that is an immersion of all senses’
Puglia, wildly preserved with authenticity is a beautiful world of its own that only has opened its doors to the rest of us in the past decade or so. In May, the fields scatter with wild flowers, in June the wheat ripens, August is full of figs, September brings the start of grape harvest and October brings olives. The Italian heel is a collection of white-washed towns with narrow streets where handmade Orecchiette exists and is home to seductive luxury farmhouses. Tucked away in the countryside of Oria is a picture-esq escape, Masseria Palombara, a chic leisurely resort, where simplicity blends into humble elegance. Life is easy here, designed for unwinding where comfort meets indulgence that surrounds itself with olives, almond trees, vineyards and Southern beauty.
Sitting underneath the shaded pergola, I sip my coffee from a ceramic cup that is blue and yellow in colour and listen to the birds in the horizon. A few lizards brush by and I breath in the gentle country air and watch as the sun rays make their morning debut. The limestone tiles beneath my feet provide a cooling sensation and I take in these slow Apulian mornings, that capture your heart. Angelo, the owner of the masseria and his wonderful family aim to provide a human experience that feeds the soul. An ambiance that encourages slow and sustainable living, being connected to nature and yearn its surroundings, the way the locals do. Palombara understands the appreciation of small things and how collectively they make a cultural enriching experience.
Surrounded with Pugliese hospitality and true Mediterranean spirit, wine and food play a big role as almost everything you’ll find on the table was grown up in Palombara. Sustainable and ecological are what the Apulian mentality is all about and it’s beautiful to watch how the rich gardens provide it’s customers with a great culinary experience. Lunch is eaten at poolside if the weather provides and dinner is served in candlelight in the coziest atmosphere. The menu is small, just the way it should be and each mouthful is a dance to the taste buds. Its romantic, unpretentious and peaceful where the guests are treated like a little family, all hidden inside the walls of a luxury resort.
Visually impeccable, every corner is stimulating to the eye, it’s simple and not excessive with much attention brought to details. Flowers arrangements spill off antique wooden tables, bold grottaglie ceramics add extra punch, washed-out carpets, glass vase lined nooks and rich mandarin trees cast shades on the lime stone walls. The detailing is infectious creating a serene space to call your home on holiday. Linen clothes lay on tables and carefully picked out pots and candles rest in every spot and the imperfect perfection reflects upon every detail. Rooms are left with the spirit of the farm, but are comforting and made to rest your soul. Start the mornings with a hammam steam room, read a book by the pool, eat amazing local delicacies, visit a few towns and let the Apulian way of life spoil you.
Just the right amount of rustic beauty, where fresh fruit from the trees are served in tin pots and the linen garments on the staff match seamlessly to the interior and style of the masseria. It’s simple but full of elegant flair. Every moment is an instagramers setup and a photographers dream.
A farmers plate for lunch with freshly picked produce during sunrise. We were lucky enough to experience the vegetable picking with the farmer early morning and he showed us his garden route as the sun was rising to the sky.
The seaside Gallipoli
It was a brutally hot day for being late september when we visited this little seaside town for the first time and all I could remember was, how amazing it would be to dip into the crystal clear waters! We took a drive from Oria to Gallipoli as we were staying in Masseria Palombara and decided to make the most of visiting beautiful places near by. The beauty of Apulia is that it is scattered with breathtaking towns all across the coast making it an ideal holiday destination as there is much to explore at a leisurely pace.
‘An old island town with surrounding transparent water’
It was a brutally hot day for being late september when we visited this little seaside town for the first time and all I could remember was, how amazing it would be to dip into the crystal clear waters! We took a drive from Oria to Gallipoli as we were staying in Masseria Palombara and decided to make the most of visiting beautiful places near by. The beauty of Apulia is that it is scattered with breathtaking towns all across the coast making it an ideal holiday destination as there is much to explore at a leisurely pace.
Gallipoli is located in Puglia’s Salento peninsula on the Ionian coast. Famous for its beaches and island lifestyle, this little fishing village is home to impressive baroque churches and a grand palazzi that is a reflection of the towns former wealth as a trading port. The charming limestone old town surrounds with a seafront promenade that circles around the town. The labyrinth-like old town spills with little cafes and restaurants during the summer months allowing time to stand still for a while.
We saw people lounging in the clear water and seeking shade under the umbrellas on the beaches as we walked up to the little old town through the port front. We pass through a little fish market that sold fresh oysters, sea urchins, mussels and all kinds of fish, fresh from the morning catch. From the moment I saw people buying fresh sea urchins and eating them on the go, I knew I would like the vibe of this town…
Both the north and south coastline surrounds with transparent water beaches making Gallipoli a seaside summer escape for holidaying Italians. This place is an evident summer town that comes to life during the warmer season, just like the town of Vieste.
Gallipoli translates to “beautiful city” in Greek and beautiful it certainly was. The town breathes the salty sea air, while the paths fill with rusty iron balconies and aquatic doors. Elders sit at their door step, others are enjoying drinks in little nooks and fisherman unwind their nets by the sea and the slow pace of this town invites you to stay. A relaxing stroll and a stop for a wine, espresso or a cooling lemon-gelato that almost instantly melted in our hands was a great way to spend the afternoon. We visited during siesta hours just post lunch time, so the town was peaceful and calm beating to the rhythm of the waves.
The limstone town, Vieste.
Welcome to Vieste, a captivating coastal town nestled along the ruggedly beautiful Gargano Peninsula in southern Italy. Perched on the Adriatic Sea, Vieste enchants visitors with its dramatic cliffs, golden beaches, and a historic town that whispers tales of ancient maritime heritage. Wander through narrow alleys adorned with whitewashed buildings adorned with colorful flowers, each corner revealing a piece of the town's rich history. Renowned for its iconic Pizzomunno, a towering monolith that stands guard over the azure waters, Vieste beckons travelers to explore its picturesque Old Town, where medieval charm meets the vibrancy of Italian coastal life. With its sun-drenched landscapes, crystalline waters, and the warm embrace of the Mediterranean breeze, Vieste promises an unforgettable sojourn along the sun-kissed shores of the Gargano coast.
‘The white washed cliff town”
Welcome to Vieste, a captivating coastal town nestled along the ruggedly beautiful Gargano Peninsula in southern Italy. Perched on the Adriatic Sea, Vieste enchants visitors with its dramatic cliffs, golden beaches, and a historic town that whispers tales of ancient maritime heritage. Wander through narrow alleys adorned with whitewashed buildings adorned with colorful flowers, each corner revealing a piece of the town's rich history. Renowned for its iconic Pizzomunno, a towering monolith that stands guard over the azure waters, Vieste beckons travelers to explore its picturesque Old Town, where medieval charm meets the vibrancy of Italian coastal life. With its sun-drenched landscapes, crystalline waters, and the warm embrace of the Mediterranean breeze, Vieste promises an unforgettable sojourn along the sun-kissed shores of the Gargano coast.
Vieste is the type of niche place where you can slide into your summer loafers, let your hair soak the seaside air and take a breather glazing into the turquoise sea. While you seek for shade under the bougainvillea, shop for local produce from little trucks and buy olive oil, cheese and spices from the market to take back home. Tuck your fingers into the most delicious seafood or orecchiette and let your legs get lost in the all white streets that need no introduction. In all honesty, the slow cooked seafood stew and tuna tartar brought us back to this town that I have been craving the last four years.
The Gargano Peninsula exists about 5 hours from Rome via car in the province of Foggia, Apulia. The “less known” region differs from the more visited areas like Salento or the Valle d’Itria with its lush pine forests, olive groves, limestone cliffs, seacaves and endless beaches. From the region we have visited Vieste and Monte Sant Angelo, the last time four years ago. We always wanted to come back to Vieste, so this time around it was perfectly on route on our drive down to Puglia. Apparently other cute towns in Gargano include, Vico, Manfredonia, Rodi and Peschici.
Nevertheless, Vieste is a pretty seaside town that sits on a limestone cliff with a picture-esq old town that lines with beaches and overlooks the Adriatic sea. It’s a typical lazy town built from a maze of steep stairs, where washing hangs from simple white houses that surrounds with a panoramic walk around it all. Just like any other Apulian old town, it is made for wandering. Visit the 11th century Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, but in Romanesque style and snap the cutest pictures just below the stairs. Here you are surrounded with white brick, darling arches, you can hear the canary birds singing from inside someones house and the gentle sea breeze pushes through the narrow streets giving some form of comfort on a hot day. Stop for cappuccino at carpenter on the little piazza of Largo Seggio, have lunch at box 19 (order the seafood stew) and dinner at a cozy cave restaurant called al dragone.
Due to our itinerary, we only stayed for 1 night & the following day but it was enough time to explore the cute streets, shop at the market for spices and experience the amazing food that the South has to offer. Vieste is a total summer town that makes a great base to explore the Gargano region.
Bleached Beauty, Cisternino
Nestled in the heart of the enchanting Puglia region, Cisternino emerges as a quintessential Italian gem, where time seems to stand still amid its historic charm. Cisternino is located in the province of Brindisi located right next to other gems, such as Martina Franca and Locorondo.
‘Charming little Gem in the heart of the trulli region’
Nestled in the heart of the enchanting Puglia region, Cisternino emerges as a quintessential Italian gem, where time seems to stand still amid its historic charm. Cisternino is located in the province of Brindisi located right next to other gems, such as Martina Franca and Locorondo. It is in the heart of Puglia’s trulli region that makes the most scenic (and my all time favourite) drive when exploring the little towns of Valle d’Itria. This picturesque town, perched atop the rolling hills of the Itria Valley, captivates visitors with its whitewashed buildings adorned with vibrant flowers and labyrinthine alleyways steeped in history. Renowned for its unique circular layout and traditional trulli houses, Cisternino provides an authentic glimpse into Puglia's rich cultural heritage. As the sun sets, casting a warm glow over the rustic stone facades, Cisternino transforms into a captivating haven where the echoes of bygone eras harmonize with the lively ambiance of local trattorias and family-run osterias. A visit to Cisternino promises an immersive journey into the soul of Puglia, where age-old traditions and modern allure coalesce seamlessly.
Surprisignly we have put a blind eye to Cisternino’s existance, even though we have been driving around (and criss-cross) the region for many years, thus we were happy to discover something new! We randomly drove to Cisternino from Masseria Palombara one morning and came back for lunch another day as we were curious to try their butcher style restaurant.
Listed as one the most beautiful small town of Italy, Cisternino has its obvious charm with a hint of Greek influence (originally found by greek settlers), Medieval style architecture where streets intertwine with beautiful archways, bleached streets, hidden courtyards and balconies awash in flowers. The Torre Civica is the gateway to the historic centre that seems to be remained virtually intact for centuries. Visit the 13th century Church of San Nicola sits on the foundation of the former Greek orthodox monastery and breath in the countryside views spotting cone-shaped trulli roofs in one of the cozy parks. Elderly men sit in shaded park benches in little groups and elderly women often sweep in front of their homes arranging flower pots keeping everything in pristine condition. Cisternino has a similar look to Locorotondo and it’s easy to fall in love with its understated charm.
The day starts with locals sipping on espresso at little piazzas with large white umbrellas, when the town only starts to awake. Boutiques open far later in little towns in the South and here, it’s perfectly acceptable to enjoy a slow morning while reading the paper. Nobody is running around and there is a respect for time here. As evening progresses, people gather for an aperitivo to wind down from the day. Community seems to be tight, a bit artsy and the ambiance is charming. For the size of the little town, it seems to have a numerous amount of different cafes and restaurants, and macelleria-eateries, meat markets where you choose what you want and they grill or roast it for you while you wait. Little did we know that this town is famous for its barbecuing butchers, this was a total treat for my meat lover husband. We ate ourselves into a total food coma from having a 1kg t-bone steak, local sausages/parcels (filled with mince, cheese and ham, carpaccio, baked potato etc. We sat outside with a carafe of local wine and indulged in total goodness, finishing the meal off with a strong espresso from little plastic cups. Not only is this eating style economical, it brings a sense of togetherness, you see the fresh produce in front of you and it’s simple, the way it should be.
The darling square of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele seems to be the heart of the town. With a tiny chocolate shop (chocolab) to your right and the clock tower in front, let the little roads lead you its tiny charming streets. Start your morning at the tiny cafe ‘Bistrot food art & design’ and sip on some rich cappuccino sitting in the light sun in one of the mosaic tables observing people go by. Have a bruschetta and extra avocados and let the coffee work it’s magic on you. Stroll around the beautiful town, make sure to stop at the Via Giulio II for the most envious flower spilling balconies. Visit the little boutiques and make your way to lunch at the butcher style Al Vecchio Fornello.
The Baroque city, Lecce
Embark on a journey through the picturesque city of Lecce, a treasure trove of art and architecture, where every step unfolds a wondrous spectacle. Known as the "Florence of the south," Lecce beckons you to begin your day with the local ritual of sipping iced almond milk, an invigorating prelude to the enchanting adventure that awaits within its ancient walls.
Embark on a journey through the picturesque city of Lecce, a treasure trove of art and architecture, where every step unfolds a wondrous spectacle. Known as the "Florence of the south," Lecce beckons you to begin your day with the local ritual of sipping iced almond milk, an invigorating prelude to the enchanting adventure that awaits within its ancient walls.
As you traverse through the arches into the walled old town, let your eyes become the guide, absorbing the intricate details that adorn the baroque-style buildings. Lecce, the crown jewel of the Salentine Peninsula, boasts a limestone historic center that echoes with a rich history spanning 2000 years. Brimming with rustic charm, the city invites you to wander aimlessly, allowing the allure of flower-filled balconies and impromptu parma ham pit stops to weave their magic.
No sightseeing guide is required in this city of experience, where every cobblestone street whispers tales of Roman ruins, a 2nd-century amphitheater, 22 churches flaunting ornate baroque designs, and the grandeur of Piazza del Duomo leading you into a maze of beautiful, narrow streets. Feel the weight of history in the sandstone walls as you lose yourself in the golden-hued labyrinth.
Lecce's charm extends beyond the historical day; it transforms into a lively hub in the evenings. Cozy restaurants and wine bars beckon, offering ideal settings for leisurely lunches, glasses of wine, and indulgent antipasti. The city comes alive with the hum of people gathered in small bars, meandering through the streets, or exploring the myriad of inviting shops that line the alleys.
Nestled in this vibrant city is the charming hidden gem, Mantateluré (Via Vittorio dei Prioli, 42), a haven where exquisite rooms and a charming terrace create an idyllic retreat. The attentive staff adds to the allure, providing valuable recommendations, such as the robust and rustic Nonna Totti—a culinary haven reminiscent of your grandmother's authentic Italian cooking. Lecce, a city that seamlessly blends history, charm, and culinary delights, awaits your exploration.
5 restaurants in Lecce
Alle Due Corti
Located in the heart of Lecce, Alle Due Corti offers a refined dining experience with a focus on traditional Salentine cuisine. The menu features a delightful array of local specialties, prepared with a modern twist. The charming atmosphere and attentive service add to the overall dining pleasure.
Trattoria Le Zie
A hidden gem tucked away in the winding streets of Lecce, Trattoria Le Zie is celebrated for its authentic Puglian dishes. From handmade pasta to fresh seafood, the menu showcases the region's culinary prowess. The cozy ambiance and friendly staff make it a favorite among locals and visitors alike.
Osteria degli Spiriti
For a gastronomic journey through the flavors of Salento, Osteria degli Spiriti is a must-visit. Set in a historic building with a charming courtyard, the restaurant offers a diverse menu featuring locally sourced ingredients. The extensive wine list complements the culinary experience, making it a top choice for food enthusiasts.
Mamma Elvira
Mamma Elvira is a family-run restaurant that captures the essence of home-cooked Italian meals. The menu reflects the warmth and authenticity of Puglian cuisine, featuring hearty portions of pasta, fresh seafood, and delectable desserts. The intimate setting and personalized service create a welcoming atmosphere for diners.
Corte dei Pandolfi
Nestled in a picturesque courtyard, Corte dei Pandolfi is a charming eatery offering a fusion of traditional and contemporary dishes. The chefs showcase their creativity with inventive flavor combinations, highlighting the diverse culinary influences of the region. The cozy setting and emphasis on fresh, local ingredients make it a standout dining destination in Lecce.
