Little Venice- The less known Chioggia
Slow Travel Guide to Chioggia, Italy: Embrace the Tranquil Charm
Chioggia, often dubbed “Little Venice,” is a place where time seems to slow down, inviting you to savor its unique charm at a leisurely pace. Located on the southern tip of the Venetian Lagoon, this small fishing town offers an authentic slice of coastal life, away from the hustle and bustle of more popular tourist destinations. This guide will help you experience Chioggia in the most relaxed and immersive way, focusing on its beautiful old town, incredible seafood, serene beaches, and peaceful boat tours.
From our 10 day stay in Veneto, we stayed for 3 nights in Chioggia, in a charming air b&b that was located right in the heart of the old town. We ate amazing seafood throughout our stay, enjoyed the beach (20 min walk from the old town to the newer part of town), took a boat tour, visited the seafood market and enjoyed the old town. Chioggia is close to Venice (you can also take the fairy to Venice) which makes it a great place to explore other beautiful towns in Veneto.
Getting to Chioggia from Venice
To reach Chioggia from Venice, you have several options. Chioggia is located approximately 35 kilometers (about 22 miles) south of Venice, just under an hour by car. It is also convenient to take a boat from Venice's San Zaccaria vaporetto stop. Alternatively, you can opt for a bus ride or even a combination of bus and boat. The journey is relatively short and makes for an easy and rewarding day trip from Venice.
Immerse Yourself in the Old Town’s Charm
As you arrive in Chioggia, allow yourself to settle into the slow rhythm of the town. Choose a charming accommodation in the heart of the old town. This central location makes it easy to explore the town on foot and be in walking distance to the best restaurants. Have coffee with other locals in one of the little cafes overlooking the water. You will find a lot of fishermen in the morning, coming into the harbour with their daily catches.
Explore the Old Town Begin your slow exploration of Chioggia by wandering through its narrow streets and alleyways. The old town is a maze of colorful buildings, picturesque canals, and charming piazzas that are perfect for a leisurely stroll. Start on Corso del Popolo, the main street lined with cafes, shops, and local life. The slower you walk, the more you’ll notice the small details that make Chioggia special: the laundry fluttering from windows, the gentle hum of conversation, and the occasional fisherman mending his nets.
Visit the Fish Market Make your way to Mercato del Pesce, the town’s vibrant fish market. Chioggia’s seafood is renowned, and the market is the beating heart of the town’s daily life. Here, you’ll find an array of freshly caught fish, clams, mussels, and—most notably—moeche, the local soft-shell crabs that are a seasonal delicacy. Take your time to chat with the vendors, learn about the different types of seafood, and soak in the lively atmosphere.
Lunch: Savor Local Seafood After exploring the market, treat yourself to a seafood lunch Order a plate of moeche, delicately fried and served with a squeeze of lemon. Pair it with a glass of local white wine, such as a crisp Soave, and enjoy the simple yet exquisite flavors that Chioggia is famous for. Also have crab pasta, langostinos and delicious scallops. Granseola (Spider Crab): A specialty in Chioggia, spider crab is often prepared in a creamy pasta sauce or served as a delectable seafood salad.
Afternoon: Slow Stroll Along the Canals Spend the afternoon slowly exploring the canals that wind through the town. Chioggia’s canals are reminiscent of Venice but quieter, offering a more intimate experience. Walk along Canal Vena, one of the most scenic spots in town, where colorful boats bob gently in the water and historic buildings reflect in the canal’s surface. Don’t rush—allow yourself to be captivated by the serene beauty of this lesser-known gem.
Evening: Relaxed Aperitivo and Dinner As evening approaches, join the locals for an aperitivo at Baruffino, a waterfront bar with a laid-back vibe. Sip on a spritz or a glass of prosecco as you watch the sunset cast a golden glow over the lagoon.
For dinner, head to Trattoria Al Ponte, a family-run establishment where you can indulge in more local seafood. Try the grigliata mista di pesce (mixed grilled fish) or bigoli in salsa (thick spaghetti with anchovy sauce). The relaxed setting and delicious food make it the perfect end to your first day.
Embrace the Coastal Life
Morning: Boat Tour of the Lagoon Start your second day with a peaceful boat tour around the Venetian Lagoon. Book a tour with a local operator who offers small group excursions. As you glide through the water, you’ll see Chioggia from a new perspective, passing by fishing boats, small islands, and the beautiful coastline. Some tours include a stop at Pellestrina, a quiet island where you can walk along the shore and enjoy the tranquility.
Late Morning: Explore Sottomarina Beach After your boat tour, head to Sottomarina Beach, just a short walk from the old town. Unlike the more crowded beaches of Italy, Sottomarina offers a relaxed atmosphere with wide stretches of golden sand. Choose a lido where you can rent a sunbed and umbrella, and let the sound of the waves lull you into a state of relaxation. Take a dip in the Adriatic Sea, stroll along the water’s edge, or simply sit back and enjoy the sun.
Lunch: Beachside Dining For lunch, enjoy a casual meal at one of the beachside restaurants, such as Bacaro Rosso, where you can savor fresh seafood with a view of the sea. Try the spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) or a simple insalata di mare (seafood salad), accompanied by a glass of chilled white wine.
Afternoon: Leisurely Beach Time After lunch, continue to unwind at the beach. Whether you prefer reading a book under the shade of your umbrella, taking a nap, or collecting seashells along the shore, Sottomarina’s peaceful ambiance makes it easy to relax and enjoy the simple pleasures of life.
Evening: Sunset and Seafood Dinner Return to the old town in the early evening, and find a spot along the waterfront to watch the sunset. The changing colors of the sky and the reflections on the water create a mesmerizing scene that’s perfect for slow travel.
For your final dinner, visit Osteria Penzo, a local favorite known for its cozy atmosphere and delicious seafood. Order the risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto) or frittura mista (mixed fried seafood), and savor each bite as you reflect on the tranquil beauty of Chioggia.
Morning: Final Stroll and Departure On your last morning in Chioggia, take a leisurely walk through the town one last time.
Visit Chiesa di San Domenico, a beautiful church located on a small island connected by a bridge, where you can admire
works of art by famous Venetian painters.
Stop for a coffee at a local cafe like Caffè Pedrocchi, and enjoy the slow pace of the morning as you watch the town wake up. As you prepare to leave, take one last look at the canals, the colorful houses, and the peaceful lagoon, knowing that you’ve experienced Chioggia in the most authentic and relaxing way possible.
Chioggia, with its timeless charm, fresh seafood, and serene surroundings, is a destination that invites you to slow down and appreciate the beauty of life at a gentle pace. Whether you’re exploring the old town, enjoying a meal by the water, or simply sitting on the beach, Chioggia offers a truly immersive and relaxing travel experience.
Here’s a small list of cute and charming restaurants in Chioggia, Italy, where you can enjoy delicious local cuisine in a cozy, authentic atmosphere:
1. Osteria Ai Coppi
Location: Calle Forno Filippini, 267
Vibe: Nestled in a quiet street, Osteria Ai Coppi offers a warm and intimate setting with rustic decor. It’s a perfect spot for a relaxed meal featuring fresh seafood and traditional Venetian dishes.
Must-Try: Moeche (soft-shell crabs), Risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto)
2. Trattoria Al Ponte
Location: Calle Ponte Caneva, 70
Vibe: This family-run trattoria is tucked away in a charming corner of the old town. With a cozy interior and a few outdoor tables, it’s a lovely spot to enjoy homemade pasta and freshly caught fish.
Must-Try: Bigoli in salsa (thick spaghetti with anchovy sauce), Frittura mista di pesce (mixed fried seafood)
3. Osteria Penzo
Location: Corso del Popolo, 1403
Vibe: Located along the lively Corso del Popolo, Osteria Penzo has a quaint and welcoming atmosphere with traditional decor. It’s a favorite among locals for its authentic Venetian flavors.
Must-Try: Sarde in saor (sweet and sour sardines), Grigliata mista di pesce (mixed grilled fish)
4. Ristorante El Gato
Location: Corso del Popolo, 1167
Vibe: With its charming outdoor seating area overlooking the canal, El Gato is perfect for a romantic dinner or a relaxed lunch. The ambiance is casual yet refined, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients.
Must-Try: Spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams), Seppie alla griglia (grilled cuttlefish)
5. Ristorante Bella Venezia
Location: Viale Padova, 8
Vibe: Set in a historic building with a lovely garden, Bella Venezia combines old-world charm with modern touches. The atmosphere is elegant but unpretentious, making it a great spot for both casual and special occasions.
Must-Try: Risotto di pesce (seafood risotto), Tiramisu
These restaurants each offer a slice of Chioggia’s culinary heritage, served in atmospheres that range from cozy and rustic to elegantly charming.
Elegant Treviso
Treviso, a city that exerts chicness and style is home to prosecco, tiramisu and Benetton. This traditional town makes a great base to explore Veneto and is a place to unwind and absorb culture.
Treviso is a less- touristy town in the Veneto region of north-east Italy that is an underrated gem often overshadowed by the iconic status of its neighbour Venice, that is just 26 km away. The town fills with little waterways calling itself città d’acque making it an important feature of the townscape. The river Side runs to the south of the center that lines with beautiful houses, hortensia bushes and water wheels. The tranquil atmosphere is much different from its neighbouring Venice and it does not depend on tourism, there are no tacky tourist shops and it is evident that this town has a sense of prosperity.
We ate delicious food in this town, everything ranging from traditional beef tartare to cacio e Pepe to boar stews and scallops with porcini mushrooms. You will find lots of cute standing bars in the old town where you can go for a glass of wine or restaurant hop as we did one evening. One of favourite antipasti dishes was a butter brioche that was served with beautiful salted anchovies. Just heavenly.
Markets
On a Tuesday the market takes over the whole of city centre Treviso. It spreads across several squares where you can find everything from clothes to homeware to food. This market is clearly where locals do their weekly shopping. We where also lucky enough to stumble across a large antique market that travels in different towns in the region on Sundays. Also, a street market is held every Saturday morning, where they sell high-quality clothing and vintage gems. The antique market brought in collectors and serious buyers looking for cars, paintings, silver ware and furniture. We strolled through the market in the morning for a couple of hours and found antique brass handles, silver ware and onyx statues to take back home with us. There where so many beautiful things, like old painting frames, statues, glass blown vases, books and cast iron chairs where items clearly have a history.
We where also lucky that there was a circus in town as we always have wanted to take our little boy to an old fashioned circus that was a real treat for us. Apparently, every morning (except Monday) a seafood market is held on the Isola della Pescheria, a small island in the middle of the Cagnan river. Also Piazza Giustinian holds an organic farmers’ market three times a week, selling local wine, cheese and charcuterie.
Things to Do:
1. Explore the Historic Center:
Wander through the labyrinthine streets and alleys of Treviso’s historic center, with its charming canals and beautifully preserved medieval buildings.
2. Piazza dei Signori:
Visit this vibrant square surrounded by elegant buildings and cafes. Don’t miss the Palazzo dei Trecento, a stunning Gothic palace.
3. Treviso Cathedral (Cattedrale di San Pietro):
Admire the architectural beauty of this 12th-century cathedral and its impressive frescoes.
4. Museum of Santa Caterina:
This former convent houses a rich collection of medieval and Renaissance art, providing insight into Treviso’s cultural heritage.
5. Canoeing on the Sile River:
Rent a canoe and paddle along the tranquil Sile River to experience the serene natural beauty of the region.
6. Prosecco Vineyards:
Take a short drive to the Prosecco wine region and visit some of the local vineyards for a wine tasting experience.
7. Cicchetti and Prosecco Tasting:
Enjoy an authentic Venetian tradition by indulging in “cicchetti” (small snacks) and a glass of Prosecco at the town’s local osterias.
Culinary Delights:
Treviso’s cuisine is a delicious blend of Italian and Venetian flavors. Try these local specialties:
Risotto al Radicchio: Creamy risotto made with the famous Treviso radicchio.
Polenta: A staple dish often served with a variety of sauces.
Tiramisu: Savor the original version of this iconic Italian dessert in its birthplace.
Shopping:
Explore Treviso’s boutique shops and markets, especially in the historic center, where you can find local wines, cheese, and handcrafted goods.
When to Visit:
Treviso is beautiful year-round, but the best times to visit are in the spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October) when the weather is mild and the tourist crowds are thinner.
watching the old school tent style circus
Hidden Gardens of Venice
Embark on a tranquil journey just a brief boat ride away from the bustling San Marco Square, and you'll find yourself in the enchanting realm of Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Nestled on the idyllic island of Giudecca, this luxurious retreat beckons those seeking respite from the vibrant energy of Venice.
Embark on a tranquil journey just a brief boat ride away from the bustling San Marco Square, and you'll find yourself in the enchanting realm of Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Nestled on the idyllic island of Giudecca, this luxurious retreat beckons those seeking respite from the vibrant energy of Venice.
As you step onto the verdant grounds, you'll be greeted by perfectly manicured gardens, providing an oasis of serenity. A leisurely stroll beneath the rose-covered arches transports you to a world of elegance and tranquility, far removed from the city's hustle and bustle.
Founded by the visionary Giuseppe Cipriani in 1958, the mastermind behind the iconic Harry's Bar and the beloved Bellini cocktail, Hotel Cipriani exudes a timeless charm. The lush surroundings, shared with the gardens, invite you to unwind and savor the leisurely pace of a Venetian afternoon.
During our visit, we indulged in a refreshing Bellini at Harry's Bar, its pale pink hue mirroring the sophistication of the establishment. For lunch, we treated ourselves to a culinary delight at the hotel's restaurant, relishing a garden-fresh salad and delectable cod fish.
In the afternoon, we embraced the soothing ambiance by the poolside, enjoying a delightful tea accompanied by sweet treats. Adorned in tranquil blue hues with a loose, droopy knot, Hotel Cipriani epitomizes elegance, offering a dreamy haven for those seeking a momentary escape. Indeed, this oasis in the heart of Venice unfolds as a perfect retreat to unwind, slow down, and bask in the sheer beauty of its surroundings.
Beyond the Grand Canal
Undoubtedly, Venice stands as one of Europe's most tourist-laden cities, yet the true enchantment unfurls when one ventures beyond the well-trodden paths, delving deeper into an authentic Venetian experience. Navigating the labyrinthine streets, each turn reveals hidden gems — captivating piazzas adorned with winding arteries, imposing clock towers, centuries-old churches, and charming eateries. Amidst the maze of tucked canals and gothic walls, Venice emanates a majestic presence impossible to ignore.
Undoubtedly, Venice stands as one of Europe's most tourist-laden cities, yet the true enchantment unfurls when one ventures beyond the well-trodden paths, delving deeper into an authentic Venetian experience. Navigating the labyrinthine streets, each turn reveals hidden gems — captivating piazzas adorned with winding arteries, imposing clock towers, centuries-old churches, and charming eateries. Amidst the maze of tucked canals and gothic walls, Venice emanates a majestic presence impossible to ignore.
Venice, often a subject of controversy and varied opinions, has garnered mixed reviews. Despite my initial hesitation, I abstained from Venice for nine years, fearing a chaotic environment and a lost sense of authenticity. However, a week spent in the city proved my apprehensions wrong, leaving me utterly mesmerized by its architectural and artistic grandeur. Venice, a place that demands time to uncover its layers, should not be hurried through. The city has earned a reputation for being described as dirty, touristy, overpriced, and chaotic. This perception stems largely from the influx of cruise ship visitors, around 30,000 per day, converging on the main sights, creating a cramped spectacle in the narrow streets. I empathize with the frustration this may cause, particularly in the height of summer. My advice is threefold: avoid the high season, venture away from the main sights to escape the crowds, and explore early morning or late evening when the city breathes with a serene calmness.
Spending a week in Venice allowed us to delve deeper into its roots, discovering a city that unwinds and reveals its peaceful side once the day-trippers disperse. By deviating from the well-trodden paths, one can navigate a Venice large enough to avoid overwhelming masses. May, away from the prime summer influx, proved to be an ideal choice for our exploration. The Rialto Bridge and San Marco Square, chaotic during the day, transform during sunrise into serene havens with a scattering of photographers and locals enjoying their morning coffees.
Addressing the commonly perceived expense of Venice, it's true that the city can be pricey compared to other Italian counterparts. However, with meticulous research, one can explore Venice on a budget. Dining costs vary, and occasional service fees can be steep, but diligent planning can help mitigate expenses. Traveling by boat might incur costs, but opting for a water bus provides a budget-friendly alternative.
In conclusion, Venice merits exploration, inviting you to let your gaze wander across weathered facades, waterlogged corridors, and tranquil piazzas, revealing the city's timeless allure.
Immerse yourself in the subtle tapestry of Venetian details — the gracefully arched windows, reminiscent of Moorish design, crowned with domes and adorned with glass crafted from repurposed bottle bottoms. Take notice of the intricate wrought-iron handrails that guide your journey, each curve telling a story of skilled craftsmanship. Wander through enchanting passageways, where vibrant flowers and trailing vines spill over, creating a picturesque cascade of natural beauty. Venice, a city steeped in the patina of time, offers a palette of fading colors that seamlessly blend with the tranquil blue-green reflections of its waters against historic facades.
Venture into the heart of the city and discover tucked-away shops nestled in the corners of splendid Gothic buildings. Each corner holds the promise of hidden treasures, with antique wonders that captivate the eye and transport you to a bygone era. Venice, in all its architectural splendor, invites you to unravel its secrets, encouraging you to explore the delicate interplay of history and aesthetics within its charming streets. Psst! The antiques here are nothing short of stunning, awaiting the discerning eye to unearth their stories and add a touch of timeless elegance to your journey.
A few restaurant options:
Porta d’Acqua in the San Polo Sestieri, where you will find a heavenly burrata
Al gondolieri for a cozy dinner
Alle Testiere for great seafood but Burano ( Gato Nero) provides an amazing seafood experience as well.
Cicheri ( little tapas sandwiches): Al Marca or La Cantina
