Little Venice- The less known Chioggia

Slow Travel Guide to Chioggia, Italy: Embrace the Tranquil Charm

Chioggia, often dubbed “Little Venice,” is a place where time seems to slow down, inviting you to savor its unique charm at a leisurely pace. Located on the southern tip of the Venetian Lagoon, this small fishing town offers an authentic slice of coastal life, away from the hustle and bustle of more popular tourist destinations. This guide will help you experience Chioggia in the most relaxed and immersive way, focusing on its beautiful old town, incredible seafood, serene beaches, and peaceful boat tours.

From our 10 day stay in Veneto, we stayed for 3 nights in Chioggia, in a charming air b&b that was located right in the heart of the old town. We ate amazing seafood throughout our stay, enjoyed the beach (20 min walk from the old town to the newer part of town), took a boat tour, visited the seafood market and enjoyed the old town. Chioggia is close to Venice (you can also take the fairy to Venice) which makes it a great place to explore other beautiful towns in Veneto.

Getting to Chioggia from Venice

To reach Chioggia from Venice, you have several options. Chioggia is located approximately 35 kilometers (about 22 miles) south of Venice, just under an hour by car. It is also convenient to take a boat from Venice's San Zaccaria vaporetto stop. Alternatively, you can opt for a bus ride or even a combination of bus and boat. The journey is relatively short and makes for an easy and rewarding day trip from Venice.

Immerse Yourself in the Old Town’s Charm

As you arrive in Chioggia, allow yourself to settle into the slow rhythm of the town. Choose a charming accommodation in the heart of the old town. This central location makes it easy to explore the town on foot and be in walking distance to the best restaurants. Have coffee with other locals in one of the little cafes overlooking the water. You will find a lot of fishermen in the morning, coming into the harbour with their daily catches.

Explore the Old Town Begin your slow exploration of Chioggia by wandering through its narrow streets and alleyways. The old town is a maze of colorful buildings, picturesque canals, and charming piazzas that are perfect for a leisurely stroll. Start on Corso del Popolo, the main street lined with cafes, shops, and local life. The slower you walk, the more you’ll notice the small details that make Chioggia special: the laundry fluttering from windows, the gentle hum of conversation, and the occasional fisherman mending his nets.

fish market

crab spaghettini

Visit the Fish Market Make your way to Mercato del Pesce, the town’s vibrant fish market. Chioggia’s seafood is renowned, and the market is the beating heart of the town’s daily life. Here, you’ll find an array of freshly caught fish, clams, mussels, and—most notably—moeche, the local soft-shell crabs that are a seasonal delicacy. Take your time to chat with the vendors, learn about the different types of seafood, and soak in the lively atmosphere.

Lunch: Savor Local Seafood After exploring the market, treat yourself to a seafood lunch Order a plate of moeche, delicately fried and served with a squeeze of lemon. Pair it with a glass of local white wine, such as a crisp Soave, and enjoy the simple yet exquisite flavors that Chioggia is famous for. Also have crab pasta, langostinos and delicious scallops. Granseola (Spider Crab): A specialty in Chioggia, spider crab is often prepared in a creamy pasta sauce or served as a delectable seafood salad.

Afternoon: Slow Stroll Along the Canals Spend the afternoon slowly exploring the canals that wind through the town. Chioggia’s canals are reminiscent of Venice but quieter, offering a more intimate experience. Walk along Canal Vena, one of the most scenic spots in town, where colorful boats bob gently in the water and historic buildings reflect in the canal’s surface. Don’t rush—allow yourself to be captivated by the serene beauty of this lesser-known gem.

Evening: Relaxed Aperitivo and Dinner As evening approaches, join the locals for an aperitivo at Baruffino, a waterfront bar with a laid-back vibe. Sip on a spritz or a glass of prosecco as you watch the sunset cast a golden glow over the lagoon.

For dinner, head to Trattoria Al Ponte, a family-run establishment where you can indulge in more local seafood. Try the grigliata mista di pesce (mixed grilled fish) or bigoli in salsa (thick spaghetti with anchovy sauce). The relaxed setting and delicious food make it the perfect end to your first day.

Embrace the Coastal Life

Morning: Boat Tour of the Lagoon Start your second day with a peaceful boat tour around the Venetian Lagoon. Book a tour with a local operator who offers small group excursions. As you glide through the water, you’ll see Chioggia from a new perspective, passing by fishing boats, small islands, and the beautiful coastline. Some tours include a stop at Pellestrina, a quiet island where you can walk along the shore and enjoy the tranquility.

Late Morning: Explore Sottomarina Beach After your boat tour, head to Sottomarina Beach, just a short walk from the old town. Unlike the more crowded beaches of Italy, Sottomarina offers a relaxed atmosphere with wide stretches of golden sand. Choose a lido where you can rent a sunbed and umbrella, and let the sound of the waves lull you into a state of relaxation. Take a dip in the Adriatic Sea, stroll along the water’s edge, or simply sit back and enjoy the sun.

Lunch: Beachside Dining For lunch, enjoy a casual meal at one of the beachside restaurants, such as Bacaro Rosso, where you can savor fresh seafood with a view of the sea. Try the spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) or a simple insalata di mare (seafood salad), accompanied by a glass of chilled white wine.

Afternoon: Leisurely Beach Time After lunch, continue to unwind at the beach. Whether you prefer reading a book under the shade of your umbrella, taking a nap, or collecting seashells along the shore, Sottomarina’s peaceful ambiance makes it easy to relax and enjoy the simple pleasures of life.

Evening: Sunset and Seafood Dinner Return to the old town in the early evening, and find a spot along the waterfront to watch the sunset. The changing colors of the sky and the reflections on the water create a mesmerizing scene that’s perfect for slow travel.

For your final dinner, visit Osteria Penzo, a local favorite known for its cozy atmosphere and delicious seafood. Order the risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto) or frittura mista (mixed fried seafood), and savor each bite as you reflect on the tranquil beauty of Chioggia.

Morning: Final Stroll and Departure On your last morning in Chioggia, take a leisurely walk through the town one last time.

Visit Chiesa di San Domenico, a beautiful church located on a small island connected by a bridge, where you can admire

works of art by famous Venetian painters.

Stop for a coffee at a local cafe like Caffè Pedrocchi, and enjoy the slow pace of the morning as you watch the town wake up. As you prepare to leave, take one last look at the canals, the colorful houses, and the peaceful lagoon, knowing that you’ve experienced Chioggia in the most authentic and relaxing way possible.

Chioggia, with its timeless charm, fresh seafood, and serene surroundings, is a destination that invites you to slow down and appreciate the beauty of life at a gentle pace. Whether you’re exploring the old town, enjoying a meal by the water, or simply sitting on the beach, Chioggia offers a truly immersive and relaxing travel experience.

Here’s a small list of cute and charming restaurants in Chioggia, Italy, where you can enjoy delicious local cuisine in a cozy, authentic atmosphere:

1. Osteria Ai Coppi

• Location: Calle Forno Filippini, 267

• Vibe: Nestled in a quiet street, Osteria Ai Coppi offers a warm and intimate setting with rustic decor. It’s a perfect spot for a relaxed meal featuring fresh seafood and traditional Venetian dishes.

• Must-Try: Moeche (soft-shell crabs), Risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto)

2. Trattoria Al Ponte

• Location: Calle Ponte Caneva, 70

• Vibe: This family-run trattoria is tucked away in a charming corner of the old town. With a cozy interior and a few outdoor tables, it’s a lovely spot to enjoy homemade pasta and freshly caught fish.

• Must-Try: Bigoli in salsa (thick spaghetti with anchovy sauce), Frittura mista di pesce (mixed fried seafood)

3. Osteria Penzo

• Location: Corso del Popolo, 1403

• Vibe: Located along the lively Corso del Popolo, Osteria Penzo has a quaint and welcoming atmosphere with traditional decor. It’s a favorite among locals for its authentic Venetian flavors.

• Must-Try: Sarde in saor (sweet and sour sardines), Grigliata mista di pesce (mixed grilled fish)

4. Ristorante El Gato

• Location: Corso del Popolo, 1167

• Vibe: With its charming outdoor seating area overlooking the canal, El Gato is perfect for a romantic dinner or a relaxed lunch. The ambiance is casual yet refined, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients.

• Must-Try: Spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams), Seppie alla griglia (grilled cuttlefish)

5. Ristorante Bella Venezia

• Location: Viale Padova, 8

• Vibe: Set in a historic building with a lovely garden, Bella Venezia combines old-world charm with modern touches. The atmosphere is elegant but unpretentious, making it a great spot for both casual and special occasions.

• Must-Try: Risotto di pesce (seafood risotto), Tiramisu

These restaurants each offer a slice of Chioggia’s culinary heritage, served in atmospheres that range from cozy and rustic to elegantly charming.

Elegant Treviso

Treviso, a city that exerts chicness and style is home to prosecco, tiramisu and Benetton. This traditional town makes a great base to explore Veneto and is a place to unwind and absorb culture.

Treviso is a less- touristy town in the Veneto region of north-east Italy that is an underrated gem often overshadowed by the iconic status of its neighbour Venice, that is just 26 km away. The town fills with little waterways calling itself città d’acque making it an important feature of the townscape. The river Side runs to the south of the center that lines with beautiful houses, hortensia bushes and water wheels. The tranquil atmosphere is much different from its neighbouring Venice and it does not depend on tourism, there are no tacky tourist shops and it is evident that this town has a sense of prosperity.

We ate delicious food in this town, everything ranging from traditional beef tartare to cacio e Pepe to boar stews and scallops with porcini mushrooms. You will find lots of cute standing bars in the old town where you can go for a glass of wine or restaurant hop as we did one evening. One of favourite antipasti dishes was a butter brioche that was served with beautiful salted anchovies. Just heavenly.

Markets

On a Tuesday the market takes over the whole of city centre Treviso. It spreads across several squares where you can find everything from clothes to homeware to food. This market is clearly where locals do their weekly shopping. We where also lucky enough to stumble across a large antique market that travels in different towns in the region on Sundays. Also, a street market is held every Saturday morning, where they sell high-quality clothing and vintage gems. The antique market brought in collectors and serious buyers looking for cars, paintings, silver ware and furniture. We strolled through the market in the morning for a couple of hours and found antique brass handles, silver ware and onyx statues to take back home with us. There where so many beautiful things, like old painting frames, statues, glass blown vases, books and cast iron chairs where items clearly have a history.

We where also lucky that there was a circus in town as we always have wanted to take our little boy to an old fashioned circus that was a real treat for us. Apparently, every morning (except Monday) a seafood market is held on the Isola della Pescheria, a small island in the middle of the Cagnan river. Also Piazza Giustinian holds an organic farmers’ market three times a week, selling local wine, cheese and charcuterie.

Pistachio croissant

Treviso market

Things to Do:

1. Explore the Historic Center:

• Wander through the labyrinthine streets and alleys of Treviso’s historic center, with its charming canals and beautifully preserved medieval buildings.

2. Piazza dei Signori:

• Visit this vibrant square surrounded by elegant buildings and cafes. Don’t miss the Palazzo dei Trecento, a stunning Gothic palace.

3. Treviso Cathedral (Cattedrale di San Pietro):

• Admire the architectural beauty of this 12th-century cathedral and its impressive frescoes.

4. Museum of Santa Caterina:

• This former convent houses a rich collection of medieval and Renaissance art, providing insight into Treviso’s cultural heritage.

5. Canoeing on the Sile River:

• Rent a canoe and paddle along the tranquil Sile River to experience the serene natural beauty of the region.

6. Prosecco Vineyards:

• Take a short drive to the Prosecco wine region and visit some of the local vineyards for a wine tasting experience.

7. Cicchetti and Prosecco Tasting:

• Enjoy an authentic Venetian tradition by indulging in “cicchetti” (small snacks) and a glass of Prosecco at the town’s local osterias.

Culinary Delights:

Treviso’s cuisine is a delicious blend of Italian and Venetian flavors. Try these local specialties:

• Risotto al Radicchio: Creamy risotto made with the famous Treviso radicchio.

• Polenta: A staple dish often served with a variety of sauces.

• Tiramisu: Savor the original version of this iconic Italian dessert in its birthplace.

Shopping:

Explore Treviso’s boutique shops and markets, especially in the historic center, where you can find local wines, cheese, and handcrafted goods.

When to Visit:

Treviso is beautiful year-round, but the best times to visit are in the spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October) when the weather is mild and the tourist crowds are thinner.

watching the old school tent style circus

Sunsets in Spello

Welcome to Spello, a picturesque gem nestled in the heart of the enchanting Umbria region of Italy. This medieval town, with its labyrinthine alleys and charming squares, invites you to step back in time and immerse yourself in its rich history and timeless beauty. Spello, often referred to as the "flower town" for its vibrant floral displays, captivates visitors with its authentic Italian atmosphere and breathtaking scenery.

A magical little town that comes lit in the evenings as the sun drapes its rays across the stone pathways. From the occasional white blankets that hang on the wire lines and the colourful flower pots that crowd the streets, makes picture-esq Spello worth a visit when traveling around Umbria. I love the pale shades of the lined up buildings and how the curvy streets have dramatic lighting, beautiful archways that you can walk under. There is attention to detail in this town, which makes the evening strolls more pleasant. We sat down for antipasti before dinner to enjoy some bruschetta and truffle cheeses and worked our apatite by exploring the maze-like streets.

Exploring the Streets: Wander through Spello's cobblestone streets, where each corner reveals a new delight. Admire the well-preserved medieval architecture adorned with colorful flowers that cascade from windowsills and balconies. As you stroll, don't miss the chance to visit the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, a stunning example of Romanesque and Renaissance artistry. The intricate frescoes and awe-inspiring architecture are sure to leave you in awe.

Floral Splendor: Spello is renowned for its annual Infiorate, a floral festival held in June, during which the streets come alive with intricate flower petal designs. Artists create elaborate and vibrant carpets of flowers, transforming the town into a fragrant masterpiece. This celebration is a testament to Spello's commitment to preserving its traditions and showcasing the beauty of nature.

Culinary Delights: Indulge your taste buds in Spello's authentic Umbrian cuisine. From fresh pasta dishes to local wines, the town's restaurants offer a delightful culinary journey. Don't forget to savor the renowned olive oil produced in the region. The combination of local ingredients and traditional recipes creates a dining experience that reflects the true essence of Italian gastronomy. We ended the evening in a super cozy restaurant called La Cantina, which I highly recommend, but make sure to make reservations in advance as the restaurant was completely packed. I ate some rustic paté on toast and for the main course had a traditional wild boar stew. With my oversized chanel hanging from my hand and an off-the- shoulder shirt with ruffles on the sleeves, my camera had work as we crossed a new corner as I needed to capture the beauty, for a minute longer. 

Hiking and Nature: For nature enthusiasts, the surrounding hills offer fantastic hiking opportunities. Embark on a journey through olive groves and vineyards, taking in panoramic views of the rolling Umbrian countryside. The tranquility of the landscape provides a perfect contrast to the bustling charm of the town.

Local Artisans: Spello is also a haven for artists and artisans. Explore the numerous workshops where skilled craftsmen produce traditional ceramics, textiles, and other handmade goods. You'll have the chance to purchase unique souvenirs that capture the essence of Spello's artistic heritage.

In essence, a visit to Spello is a voyage through time, where the past seamlessly blends with the present. Its well-preserved history, vibrant festivals, delectable cuisine, and natural beauty make it a destination that beckons travelers to slow down, savor each moment, and appreciate the magic of this charming Italian town. Whether you're an art aficionado, a history buff, or a nature lover, Spello offers an unforgettable experience that lingers in the heart long after you bid arrivederci.

Bevagna & Spoleto

Bevagna

Bevagna

Bevagna, the sleepy Roman-medieval village is situated next to the Teverone river that lies on flat ground, unlike most Umbrian towns that require quiet the hike to reach the centre! As we drove here from our villa through the scenic route we entered through the southern city gate passing the cute bridge that crosses over the Clitunno river.  It was as if stepping back in time into the middle ages when entering the old town. Bevagna thrives on its medieval past and we happened to stumble in on the day the town was celebrating an annual medieval-style feast called the Gaite Market. The point of it all is to display the techniques and tools used in history to show how people lived back then. You get to taste traditional food, attend craft workshops thus locals we building booths, setting tables and walking around in Robyn Hood-like costumes to showcase for a journey into the past.

As it was early morning, we stopped for a cappuccino in Piazza Silvestri that seemed to be Bevagna’s pride and joy. Ps. Bevagna takes its siesta very seriously so everything closes super early so keep that in mind if you are planning a visit. It was still quiet in the streets and stores were slowly beginning to open and the hassle was focused on the corner cafes. The espresso machine was buzzing away and locals seemed to be in a festive state of mind and you could feel the sense of the community here. I could imagine this event brings the entire town together as it seemed as if everybody was joining in. We ordered cappuccino and sat down to watch the locals traverse the square to get from one place to another. The piazza is the standing point to two dominating Romanesque churches built in the 12th century, San Silvestro made from stone and the larger  San Michele Archangelo. In the middle, there is a fountain and a civic building that seemed to gather people along with pigeons as the day prolonged.

After our delightful coffees, we took a turn to the backstreets passing the curving Vicolo del Amphiteatro and wandering through streets that had sidewalk restaurants, historic workshops, antique shops, numerous butchers, bakeries and candlestick making-shops. We noticed people lining up to a bakery and next we found ourselves in the same que. It smelled of freshly made loaf and there was a pastries display with treats like, biscotti and Sfogliatella lined up for customers to see. We noticed many locals taking these puff pastry cream horns that were coated with delicate sugar, so we decided to try one as well. They were just made, still warm with the vanilla oozing out. Before tasting it, we walked to the side street and from the corner of my eye I spotted a blush coloured wall. God bless my husband as he instantly knew what I was after. It was time for picture of the pastry with a cute blush backdrop! After a few pics, that first bite was so light and gorgeously flakey while the condensed vanilla cream hit you moments after. It was heavenly and we did not care that we had sugar all over our faces (see below) and we gobbled it up fairly quickly! It was sweet but light and no wonder everybody was lining up to buy them!

Bevagna

Spoleto

Spoleto,  Umbria Italy

Plotted on a hillside, Spoleto is a beautiful artsy town with one major pathway leading up through the winding streets up to the 12th century duomo, that is a fine sight set against a backdrop of lush valleys.

Walking up the pathway, you are mesmerized with pastel walls, medieval architecture, dashes of colour from both ends of the spectrum and grand arches, a mark that is left by the Romans. Spoleto is a dream to photograph as the light is captured and cornered in different nooks depending on the time of the day. It is gentle and dramatic, an admirable little town and a “historical picnic” according to lonely planet.

Today the town is known for its festival called Festival dei Due Mondi, a party of many days that includes opera, dancing, music and art. Mr. N and I loved the walk through the old town, we stopped for some amazing espresso, shopped in cheese shops, spice shops and obviously stopped for a glass of wine during our hike.

Spoleto

September Veneto Road Trip

Veneto is a beautiful region to explore filled with charming towns filled with amazing food and sites to see. 

The highlight of our end of summer was a trip to Italy where we drove around Veneto for ten days. Typically, we fly to Rome and drive from there but this time we flew to Venice and explored new areas nearby. We have explored Veneto before so we skipped exploring places like Verona and Soave that we are already familiar with. I’m often asked about our travel routes that are commonly curated with the help of Pinterest and a lot exploration on google maps (mainly by looking at the restaurants in the area), so I wanted to share this route with you, in case you are in the midst of planning a road trip to Veneto. The great thing about this location is that all the cities/towns we stayed in are about an hour away from each other which makes it very convenient when travelling with an active almost two year old toddler. So, our travel route was Venice – Arquá Petrarca- Treviso- Chioggia. From these towns, we made day trips to other locations that I will share with you later.

Venice

Well, Venice needs no introduction. We only stayed in Venice for one day as we have been there before so our priority was to visit other places instead and thought it would be too full of tourists. Surprisingly there were not that many tourists in Venice if you wonder off the beaten path which makes the experience that much more lovely. We enjoyed it that much more, so we decided to visit it again from Arquá Petrarca. Venice is quite difficult with a travel stroller but luckily my husband is strong and carried it over the bridges when we walked around, so keep this in mind if travelling with a small child. Venice is beautiful, get there early and enjoy it when it is still calm on the streets.

Arquá Petrarca

Arquá Petrarca, this medieval village  invites you to take a slow walk in the foot steps of Mount Piccolo and Mount Ventolone. Peaked on top to a hill, the surrounding is covered with woodland and vineyards, while the cobbled street tiny town is filled with many restaurants inviting you to the slow pace of life in the most charming setting. The town has been inhabited since Roman times but it grew during the Middle Ages during the domination of Venice. The little town gained attention when Francesco Petrarca, an illustrious Italian poet spent the his last years here and notably the town is part of Italy’s most beautiful Villages. Places to visit near by are Padova, Vicenza, Venice and Rovigo.

While the town has been inhabited since Roman times, it grew significantly in the Middle Ages under the Padovan nobles and the domination of Venice. It gained more attention when Francesco Petrarca, an illustrious Italian poet and scholar, decided to spend the last years of his life in the serene tranquility of this place.

Treviso

Just 26km from Venice, Treviso is a chic less- touristy town in the Veneto region of north-east Italy that makes a great base for exploring. Treviso is an underrated gem often overshadowed by the iconic status of its neighbour. The town fills with little waterways calling itself città d’acque making it an important feature of the townscape. The river Side runs to the south of the center that lines with beautiful houses, hortensia bushes and water wheels. The tranquil atmosphere is much different from its neighbouring Venice and it does not depend on tourism, there are no tacky tourist shops and it is evident that this town has a sense of prosperity. We where lucky enough to stumble across a large antique market that travels in different towns in the region on Sundays. Also, a street market is held every Saturday morning, where they sell high-quality clothing and vintage gems. The market brought in collectors and serious buyers looking for cars, paintings, silver ware and furniture. We strolled through the market in the morning for a couple of hours and found antique brass handles, silver ware and onyx statues to take back home with us. We where also lucky that there was a circus in town as we always have wanted to take our little boy to an old fashioned circus that was a real treat for us. Apparently, every morning (except Monday) a seafood market is held on the Isola della Pescheria, a small island in the middle of the Cagnan river. Also Piazza Giustinian holds an organic farmers’ market three times a week, selling local wine, cheese and charcuterie.

Chioggia

It is a pretty little fishing town on a group of small islands connected by bridges in the southernmost outpost of the Venetian lagoon that is apart of the most beautiful cities in Italy. This town has a beautiful beach, pretty canals, amazing seafood and enchanting Italian charm. We stayed in the idyllic old town, that was lively, full of fishing boats and authenticity. You could hear the seagulls as the fishing boats came to dock, fishermen brought fresh produce to the fish market on a daily basis that collected a lot of buzz. The region is known for spider crab fishing along with catching little vongole- clams. We went to the beach a few times that is located only a 15 minute walk away from the old town that was a lovely experience for our little boy. Chioggia is very pretty and just off the beaten path enough to have retained a lot of local charm making it a great place to explore. We drove back to Venice airport from Chioggia that completed our lovely roadtrip.

Hidden Gardens of Venice

Embark on a tranquil journey just a brief boat ride away from the bustling San Marco Square, and you'll find yourself in the enchanting realm of Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Nestled on the idyllic island of Giudecca, this luxurious retreat beckons those seeking respite from the vibrant energy of Venice.

As you step onto the verdant grounds, you'll be greeted by perfectly manicured gardens, providing an oasis of serenity. A leisurely stroll beneath the rose-covered arches transports you to a world of elegance and tranquility, far removed from the city's hustle and bustle.

Founded by the visionary Giuseppe Cipriani in 1958, the mastermind behind the iconic Harry's Bar and the beloved Bellini cocktail, Hotel Cipriani exudes a timeless charm. The lush surroundings, shared with the gardens, invite you to unwind and savor the leisurely pace of a Venetian afternoon.

During our visit, we indulged in a refreshing Bellini at Harry's Bar, its pale pink hue mirroring the sophistication of the establishment. For lunch, we treated ourselves to a culinary delight at the hotel's restaurant, relishing a garden-fresh salad and delectable cod fish.

In the afternoon, we embraced the soothing ambiance by the poolside, enjoying a delightful tea accompanied by sweet treats. Adorned in tranquil blue hues with a loose, droopy knot, Hotel Cipriani epitomizes elegance, offering a dreamy haven for those seeking a momentary escape. Indeed, this oasis in the heart of Venice unfolds as a perfect retreat to unwind, slow down, and bask in the sheer beauty of its surroundings.

The secret Garden of Italy- Tivoli

‘Finding the secret garden of Italy in Tivoli that breathes art & history’

Providing the perfect country escape, Tivoli is a small medieval town situated on the Aniene river, about 30 kilometers from Rome that is filled with beauty and history. Perched on a hilltop with an abundance of natural beauty, the town offers panoramic views of manicured gardens and archaeological sites. Driving from Apulia, our last night in Italy needed to be situated close the airport as our flight to France was early morning, so we decided to stay in Tivoli, instead of Rome. However, if you are staying in Rome with days to spare, I would recommend a relaxing day trip to Tivoli to get away from the hassle of the city.

Tivoli is considered to be one of Lazio’s most beautiful countryside villages and therefore it was once the playground for the wealthy Roman elite during the Renaissance and classical times. This era has left the town with villas and gardens that has made Tivoli famous today and therefore is a UNESCO site because of these three; Villa d’Este, Villa Gregoriana and Villa Adriana.

We arrived to Tivoli during the afternoon and checked into the hotel upon arrival. We loved our room, so cozy and romantic! We missed lunch hour and ate on the road but after a quick shower, we headed out exploring. Feeling a little parched, we stopped for some antipasti and prosecco and walked around the beautiful old town. It seemed like a religious little place, nuns walking around, church bells ringing in the background, views like-no-other and tiny piazzas here and there. We stopped for ice cream and accidentally came across to Villa D’Este, that took our breaths away. If I envision what a secret garden would like, this would it.  Villa d’Este is something like no other, it is a masterpiece of a huge garden estate. It has the most whimsical ora to it, dancing fountains, stone sculptures, grottoes, nymphs, beautiful ponds and hidden nooks that much represents european gardens in the baroque style. There is landscape, art and history to see and includes important ruins of ancient villas such as Villa Adriana

Stay We stayed in a super cozy junior suite of B&B Al Palazzetto, where the hotel was beautifully restored. The location was perfectly centred in the old town and we were able to leave our car in a secured parking in the base of the town. Great price quality ratio and highly recommend the place.

Love Walk around the picturesque old town and stop for processo and a cheese platter in one of the spilling terraces hidden in the cutest corners. Have some icecream desert and explore the gardens of villa d éste. Snuggle up in a cozy piazzas for dinner over a full-bodied red wine and steak.

Wander Walk around the sophisticated crown jewel, Villa D´Este and get lost in the gardens. Experience the natural beauty of it all, the art, landscape design and be impressed by the numerous fountains. The handwork of the Romans is impressive and I was in heaven seeing all the ancient tiles and beautiful architecture. Villa d’Este is situated across the main square of Largo Garibaldi and was originally the country estate of Cardinal Ippolito d’Este. The villa itself is a display of history; exploring the original marble floors and mannerist frescoes that then opens up to the hectares of gardens.

Beyond the Grand Canal

Undoubtedly, Venice stands as one of Europe's most tourist-laden cities, yet the true enchantment unfurls when one ventures beyond the well-trodden paths, delving deeper into an authentic Venetian experience. Navigating the labyrinthine streets, each turn reveals hidden gems — captivating piazzas adorned with winding arteries, imposing clock towers, centuries-old churches, and charming eateries. Amidst the maze of tucked canals and gothic walls, Venice emanates a majestic presence impossible to ignore.

St. Marco Square during sunrise

Venice, often a subject of controversy and varied opinions, has garnered mixed reviews. Despite my initial hesitation, I abstained from Venice for nine years, fearing a chaotic environment and a lost sense of authenticity. However, a week spent in the city proved my apprehensions wrong, leaving me utterly mesmerized by its architectural and artistic grandeur. Venice, a place that demands time to uncover its layers, should not be hurried through. The city has earned a reputation for being described as dirty, touristy, overpriced, and chaotic. This perception stems largely from the influx of cruise ship visitors, around 30,000 per day, converging on the main sights, creating a cramped spectacle in the narrow streets. I empathize with the frustration this may cause, particularly in the height of summer. My advice is threefold: avoid the high season, venture away from the main sights to escape the crowds, and explore early morning or late evening when the city breathes with a serene calmness.

Spending a week in Venice allowed us to delve deeper into its roots, discovering a city that unwinds and reveals its peaceful side once the day-trippers disperse. By deviating from the well-trodden paths, one can navigate a Venice large enough to avoid overwhelming masses. May, away from the prime summer influx, proved to be an ideal choice for our exploration. The Rialto Bridge and San Marco Square, chaotic during the day, transform during sunrise into serene havens with a scattering of photographers and locals enjoying their morning coffees.

Addressing the commonly perceived expense of Venice, it's true that the city can be pricey compared to other Italian counterparts. However, with meticulous research, one can explore Venice on a budget. Dining costs vary, and occasional service fees can be steep, but diligent planning can help mitigate expenses. Traveling by boat might incur costs, but opting for a water bus provides a budget-friendly alternative.

In conclusion, Venice merits exploration, inviting you to let your gaze wander across weathered facades, waterlogged corridors, and tranquil piazzas, revealing the city's timeless allure.

Immerse yourself in the subtle tapestry of Venetian details — the gracefully arched windows, reminiscent of Moorish design, crowned with domes and adorned with glass crafted from repurposed bottle bottoms. Take notice of the intricate wrought-iron handrails that guide your journey, each curve telling a story of skilled craftsmanship. Wander through enchanting passageways, where vibrant flowers and trailing vines spill over, creating a picturesque cascade of natural beauty. Venice, a city steeped in the patina of time, offers a palette of fading colors that seamlessly blend with the tranquil blue-green reflections of its waters against historic facades.

Venture into the heart of the city and discover tucked-away shops nestled in the corners of splendid Gothic buildings. Each corner holds the promise of hidden treasures, with antique wonders that captivate the eye and transport you to a bygone era. Venice, in all its architectural splendor, invites you to unravel its secrets, encouraging you to explore the delicate interplay of history and aesthetics within its charming streets. Psst! The antiques here are nothing short of stunning, awaiting the discerning eye to unearth their stories and add a touch of timeless elegance to your journey.

A few restaurant options:

• Porta d’Acqua in the San Polo Sestieri, where you will find a heavenly burrata

• Al gondolieri for a cozy dinner

• Alle Testiere for great seafood but Burano ( Gato Nero) provides an amazing seafood experience as well.

• Cicheri ( little tapas sandwiches): Al Marca or La Cantina

Burano: Gato Nero

Bacari in Venice, the local way.

‘Gone for an espresso, some bacari & Venetian delights.. local style’

Venice, a city suspended on water, is a mesmerizing labyrinth of canals, historic architecture, and cultural richness. Its unique charm lies not only in the grandeur of St. Mark's Square or the iconic gondola rides but also in the intimate corners where locals and visitors alike immerse themselves in the Bacari culture.

Venice is surrounded with cute little espresso or bacari (this basically refers to the antipasti or tapas way of eating, but with Venetian customs) bars that make the winding streets interesting to roam. You may pass little vegetable stands, chocolate shops, delis and you always want to seek for places, where locals are. We came across a few cute places that I thought should be worth a share, along with the most beautiful views that came along the way. You often find locas eating cicchetti and ordering, “n’ombra de vin” or “uno spritz” standing up at the bar counter or around a wine barrel having a great time.

Walking around here is simple beautiful, I’m so drawn to all the muted blue shades that keep appearing in window shutters and you become so impressed by the attention to detail. I can easily look past the clichés of Venice and observe a little deeper to find a city filled with art and history. I love how dense Venice really is, you keep finding little hidden shops and cafés by accident, which you end up loving.

Have bacari at bistrot (Chat qui rit) and indulge in a cheese and parma ham platter and crab meat with a divine salty reduction. The cheese selection here won some type of award a few years ago and it was a great way to end the meal. Stop for an espresso (also a great cappuccino here) and pastries at a shabby cafe where all the locals lingered at caffé Brasilia Sestiere San Marco 3658a. Locals also love caffeteria Doria, it was buzzing in the mornings with people standing by the bar taking shots of 1euro espresso. There is a great authentic vibe here and equally, in the evenings it crowds with people who come together for wine and apperol. This place has a great atmosphere despite it being close to Saint Mark’s Basilica, that is filled with tourists. While you’re in the neighbourhood, stop at Cibo (Calle dei Fabbri Sestiere Sano Marco 4666) a cute delicatessen that is a jewel in the heart of the city that serves quality meets, cheeses, truffles, pasta and wine that you should for sure indulge in. Still in San Marco neighbourhood, stop for cicchetti (little sandwiches that are tradition in Venice) on Calle Della Malvasia Castello called Osteria al Portego or the hidden I Rusteghi Osteria Enoteca (Corte del Tentor, 5513) that is perhaps a little more “refined” than the traditional bar that has a lovely tiny courtyard with a wonderful wine list.

The city of Masks- Venice

Embarking on a leisurely stroll through the enchanting streets of Venice is not merely an act of window shopping; it is a journey into a realm of theatrical splendor. As you traverse the narrow alleys, boutique windows beckon with an exquisite array of elaborate costumes, mysterious masks, timeless antiques, and opulent jewelry. The very essence of this experience is heightened by the picturesque backdrop of canals crisscrossing beneath charming bridges, accompanied by the soothing symphony of passing boats.

In the midst of the bustling crowds, it is essential to resist distraction and seize the tranquility of the early hours. These moments allow you to absorb the profound history etched into the walls, tracing back to the V century C.E. When political power shifted to Rialto in 810 C.E., then known as Rivo Alto, Venice emerged as a prominent seaport—a vital link between medieval Europe and Asia, shaping both its economy and culture.

Venturing beyond the surface, you'll encounter a fascinating Venetian tradition manifesting in the form of masks. These symbols of freedom and transgression have adorned faces since the Middle Ages, finding a modern-day resurgence during the iconic Carnival of Venice. The city boasts numerous boutiques dedicated to these intricate masks, a visual feast that captivates the eyes and the imagination.

Among the captivating mask designs, those featuring elongated noses carry a historical resonance. Centuries ago, during plagues that befell Venice, doctors donned masks with extended noses as a sanitary measure. The echoes of this cautionary practice are seen in the masks of today's Carnival revelry.

Navigating the cityscape involves traversing its iconic bridges—a feat made more challenging with a travel stroller in tow, admirably shouldered by my husband. Intermittent pauses at standing cafes offer moments of respite, accompanied by the quintessential Italian pairing of espresso and bruschetta. A personal favorite became the local delicacy of baccala bread, an enticing blend of flavors with a hint of saltiness.

Our exploration extended beyond the tourist hubs, meandering through diverse neighborhoods and piazzas, each unveiling a new facet of Venice's timeless beauty. Amidst warm September air, we relished leisurely lunches in cozy establishments, immersing ourselves in the cultural tapestry that makes Venice an unrivaled destination.

September in Umbria

Embracing the Slow Italian lifestyle

As the amber hues of September cast their warm glow over the undulating landscapes of Umbria, we embarked on a journey into the heart of Italy—a sojourn that unfolded in a harmonious dance with the region's lauded "slow life." Nestled in the embrace of our rented villa, our days were marked by the unhurried cadence of Italian living, a celebration of simplicity, culinary richness, and the exploration of nearby towns that echoed with centuries of history.

Villa Living: A Retreat into Tranquility

Our choice of accommodation, a rustic villa tucked away in the verdant hills of Umbria, became a sanctuary for the soul. Surrounded by olive groves and vineyards, the villa encapsulated the essence of "slow life"—an invitation to savor every moment, to relish the gentle rustle of leaves, and to immerse ourselves in the quietude of rural living. Each sunrise and sunset became a canvas painted with the hues of tranquility, offering a daily reminder to embrace the unhurried pace of our Italian retreat.

Culinary Revelry: From Farm to Table

The heart of our slow-paced Italian experience lay in the kitchen, where we joyfully embraced the farm-to-table ethos that permeates Umbria. Market visits and local farm explorations led to our culinary escapades, transforming every meal into a ritual of flavors. Whether it was the robust notes of a local Sagrantino wine, the golden glow of freshly pressed olive oil, or the earthy allure of truffles, our palates danced to the rhythm of Umbria's culinary symphony.

Exploring Nearby Towns: Timeless Beauty Unveiled

Venturing beyond the confines of our villa, we set out to explore the nearby towns that dot the Umbrian landscape. Perugia, with its medieval charm; Assisi, adorned with the spiritual aura of St. Francis; and Spoleto, where ancient and modern seamlessly coexist—each town narrated a tale of history, art, and the enduring beauty of Italian heritage. The slow exploration of narrow cobblestone streets and leisurely café stops allowed us to absorb the rich tapestry of each town at our own unhurried pace.

Art of Dolce Far Niente: Sweetness of Doing Nothing

In the spirit of "dolce far niente" or the sweetness of doing nothing, our afternoons unfolded in blissful idleness. Be it basking in the Tuscan sun by the villa's pool or meandering through the local markets, we found joy in the simplicity of existence. Umbria, with its timeless landscapes and ancient charm, invited us to pause, to reflect, and to appreciate the beauty that emerges when life unfolds at its own leisurely tempo.

Our September retreat in Umbria became a harmonious symphony of slow living—an Italian serenade that transcended the ordinary. In the quiet moments and the unhurried exploration of nearby towns, we discovered the profound beauty that resides in the art of slowing down. Umbria, with its rolling hills, vineyards, and ancient towns, not only offered a picturesque backdrop but became the canvas upon which we painted our own version of the Italian slow life—a masterpiece of moments, flavors, and the timeless allure of la dolce vita.

Tuscany Guide- Three Smaller towns in the region

Montepulciano

I wanted to share a small guide of three wonderful places we visited, all located close to Siena. We stayed in Montepulciano for three nights and during that time we drove to see other neighbouring towns, such as Montalcino and Pienza. If you are looking for picturesque little towns all in close proximity, get ready to take out your camera and walk along these cobbled streets. We traveled with our 8 month old and found all these destinations baby friendly and possible to walk around with a stroller.

Pienza

A fairytale in Tuscany – Montepulciano

Where the wine is velvety smooth and rich in density, Montepulciano is a stunning hilltop town in the south of Tuscany in the province of Siena. It is surrounded with lush vineyards and the scenery of Val d’orcia and Val di Chiana valleys and the town dates back to the 4th and 5th century BC. The old town is a typical cobbled street beauty with one main road that leads up a steep walk into the centre. There are churches, idyllic piazzas, restaurants and wine shops around every corner. The town is filled with majestic buildings that have been worked on by many famous Renaissance artists like, Andrea Pozzo, Giuliano da Sangallo and Michelozzo. The town is not that big in itself, we did some wine sampling, a bit of shopping and dining. We found fabulous hand made copper pots and pans to take back home with us, along with some red wine. Like all towns in Italy, Montepulciano was very child friendly and I love how all the local elderlies stop and talk to the little one in the stroller.

The cozy Pecorino di Pienza

Pienza is only a 20 minute drive from Montepulciano so it is definitely worth a visit. We fell in love with this UNESCO-recognized town, partly due to its refined charm. The town is a cosy little spot that literally has a linger of pecorino cheese in the air. We visited the town early in the morning, strolled around and ate breakfast before our baby’s nap time, who later fell asleep in the car as we drove to visit another town nearby. Pienza is also located in Val d’Orcia, that is known as a picturesque Renaissance town that has been influenced by Pope Pius II, as it was his home town. By the main square there is a cosy little cafe that serves the most airy apricots croissants and a frothy cappuccino. Right across the cafe is a cheese shop (that you will find all over town), where you can by the most glorious aged pecorino that we sampled with our croissants. It was the most perfect morning with my boys, we sat and sipped on our coffee and watched locals open their boutiques as the day began. Walk around the edge of the town and overlook the views into the Tuscany countryside. If you are here in the evening, I would recommend to stop for a glass of wine as the sun begins to set overlooking the hills while sampling on cheese and honey.

Another wine lovers town- Montalcino

Another Mecca for wine lovers, this medieval town is world-famous for its renowned red wine, the Brunello di Montalcino, which is considered the absolute Italian wine in Tuscany. The wine ages for at least 2 years in oak barrels, and then it ages for at least 4 months in the bottle and it tastes earth and deep, rich with flavour. A 45 minute drive from Montepulciano, we loved this town; the antiquee stores, the delicious food (and wine) and atmosphere it offers. We had an amazing tartar lunch and hearty pasta and sampled on stunning red wines as we explored the town. A stroll through Montalcino reveals enchanting historical attractions, small churches and picturesque squares. With church bells ringing in the backdrop as we sample on deep ruby coloured Brunello di Montalcino. It is completed according to the strictest DOCG rules and is made with a single type of grape, the Sangiovese Grosso grape. The town is best explored by roaming without a plan and makes an ideal spot to visit for lunch.

Montalcino

Montalcino