Hidden Gardens of Venice
Embark on a tranquil journey just a brief boat ride away from the bustling San Marco Square, and you'll find yourself in the enchanting realm of Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Nestled on the idyllic island of Giudecca, this luxurious retreat beckons those seeking respite from the vibrant energy of Venice.
Embark on a tranquil journey just a brief boat ride away from the bustling San Marco Square, and you'll find yourself in the enchanting realm of Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Nestled on the idyllic island of Giudecca, this luxurious retreat beckons those seeking respite from the vibrant energy of Venice.
As you step onto the verdant grounds, you'll be greeted by perfectly manicured gardens, providing an oasis of serenity. A leisurely stroll beneath the rose-covered arches transports you to a world of elegance and tranquility, far removed from the city's hustle and bustle.
Founded by the visionary Giuseppe Cipriani in 1958, the mastermind behind the iconic Harry's Bar and the beloved Bellini cocktail, Hotel Cipriani exudes a timeless charm. The lush surroundings, shared with the gardens, invite you to unwind and savor the leisurely pace of a Venetian afternoon.
During our visit, we indulged in a refreshing Bellini at Harry's Bar, its pale pink hue mirroring the sophistication of the establishment. For lunch, we treated ourselves to a culinary delight at the hotel's restaurant, relishing a garden-fresh salad and delectable cod fish.
In the afternoon, we embraced the soothing ambiance by the poolside, enjoying a delightful tea accompanied by sweet treats. Adorned in tranquil blue hues with a loose, droopy knot, Hotel Cipriani epitomizes elegance, offering a dreamy haven for those seeking a momentary escape. Indeed, this oasis in the heart of Venice unfolds as a perfect retreat to unwind, slow down, and bask in the sheer beauty of its surroundings.
Beyond the Grand Canal
Undoubtedly, Venice stands as one of Europe's most tourist-laden cities, yet the true enchantment unfurls when one ventures beyond the well-trodden paths, delving deeper into an authentic Venetian experience. Navigating the labyrinthine streets, each turn reveals hidden gems — captivating piazzas adorned with winding arteries, imposing clock towers, centuries-old churches, and charming eateries. Amidst the maze of tucked canals and gothic walls, Venice emanates a majestic presence impossible to ignore.
Undoubtedly, Venice stands as one of Europe's most tourist-laden cities, yet the true enchantment unfurls when one ventures beyond the well-trodden paths, delving deeper into an authentic Venetian experience. Navigating the labyrinthine streets, each turn reveals hidden gems — captivating piazzas adorned with winding arteries, imposing clock towers, centuries-old churches, and charming eateries. Amidst the maze of tucked canals and gothic walls, Venice emanates a majestic presence impossible to ignore.
Venice, often a subject of controversy and varied opinions, has garnered mixed reviews. Despite my initial hesitation, I abstained from Venice for nine years, fearing a chaotic environment and a lost sense of authenticity. However, a week spent in the city proved my apprehensions wrong, leaving me utterly mesmerized by its architectural and artistic grandeur. Venice, a place that demands time to uncover its layers, should not be hurried through. The city has earned a reputation for being described as dirty, touristy, overpriced, and chaotic. This perception stems largely from the influx of cruise ship visitors, around 30,000 per day, converging on the main sights, creating a cramped spectacle in the narrow streets. I empathize with the frustration this may cause, particularly in the height of summer. My advice is threefold: avoid the high season, venture away from the main sights to escape the crowds, and explore early morning or late evening when the city breathes with a serene calmness.
Spending a week in Venice allowed us to delve deeper into its roots, discovering a city that unwinds and reveals its peaceful side once the day-trippers disperse. By deviating from the well-trodden paths, one can navigate a Venice large enough to avoid overwhelming masses. May, away from the prime summer influx, proved to be an ideal choice for our exploration. The Rialto Bridge and San Marco Square, chaotic during the day, transform during sunrise into serene havens with a scattering of photographers and locals enjoying their morning coffees.
Addressing the commonly perceived expense of Venice, it's true that the city can be pricey compared to other Italian counterparts. However, with meticulous research, one can explore Venice on a budget. Dining costs vary, and occasional service fees can be steep, but diligent planning can help mitigate expenses. Traveling by boat might incur costs, but opting for a water bus provides a budget-friendly alternative.
In conclusion, Venice merits exploration, inviting you to let your gaze wander across weathered facades, waterlogged corridors, and tranquil piazzas, revealing the city's timeless allure.
Immerse yourself in the subtle tapestry of Venetian details — the gracefully arched windows, reminiscent of Moorish design, crowned with domes and adorned with glass crafted from repurposed bottle bottoms. Take notice of the intricate wrought-iron handrails that guide your journey, each curve telling a story of skilled craftsmanship. Wander through enchanting passageways, where vibrant flowers and trailing vines spill over, creating a picturesque cascade of natural beauty. Venice, a city steeped in the patina of time, offers a palette of fading colors that seamlessly blend with the tranquil blue-green reflections of its waters against historic facades.
Venture into the heart of the city and discover tucked-away shops nestled in the corners of splendid Gothic buildings. Each corner holds the promise of hidden treasures, with antique wonders that captivate the eye and transport you to a bygone era. Venice, in all its architectural splendor, invites you to unravel its secrets, encouraging you to explore the delicate interplay of history and aesthetics within its charming streets. Psst! The antiques here are nothing short of stunning, awaiting the discerning eye to unearth their stories and add a touch of timeless elegance to your journey.
A few restaurant options:
Porta d’Acqua in the San Polo Sestieri, where you will find a heavenly burrata
Al gondolieri for a cozy dinner
Alle Testiere for great seafood but Burano ( Gato Nero) provides an amazing seafood experience as well.
Cicheri ( little tapas sandwiches): Al Marca or La Cantina
Bacari in Venice, the local way.
Venice, a city suspended on water, is a mesmerizing labyrinth of canals, historic architecture, and cultural richness. Its unique charm lies not only in the grandeur of St. Mark's Square or the iconic gondola rides but also in the intimate corners where locals and visitors alike immerse themselves in the Bacari culture.
‘Gone for an espresso, some bacari & Venetian delights.. local style’
Venice, a city suspended on water, is a mesmerizing labyrinth of canals, historic architecture, and cultural richness. Its unique charm lies not only in the grandeur of St. Mark's Square or the iconic gondola rides but also in the intimate corners where locals and visitors alike immerse themselves in the Bacari culture.
Venice is surrounded with cute little espresso or bacari (this basically refers to the antipasti or tapas way of eating, but with Venetian customs) bars that make the winding streets interesting to roam. You may pass little vegetable stands, chocolate shops, delis and you always want to seek for places, where locals are. We came across a few cute places that I thought should be worth a share, along with the most beautiful views that came along the way. You often find locas eating cicchetti and ordering, “n’ombra de vin” or “uno spritz” standing up at the bar counter or around a wine barrel having a great time.
Walking around here is simple beautiful, I’m so drawn to all the muted blue shades that keep appearing in window shutters and you become so impressed by the attention to detail. I can easily look past the clichés of Venice and observe a little deeper to find a city filled with art and history. I love how dense Venice really is, you keep finding little hidden shops and cafés by accident, which you end up loving.
Have bacari at bistrot (Chat qui rit) and indulge in a cheese and parma ham platter and crab meat with a divine salty reduction. The cheese selection here won some type of award a few years ago and it was a great way to end the meal. Stop for an espresso (also a great cappuccino here) and pastries at a shabby cafe where all the locals lingered at caffé Brasilia Sestiere San Marco 3658a. Locals also love caffeteria Doria, it was buzzing in the mornings with people standing by the bar taking shots of 1euro espresso. There is a great authentic vibe here and equally, in the evenings it crowds with people who come together for wine and apperol. This place has a great atmosphere despite it being close to Saint Mark’s Basilica, that is filled with tourists. While you’re in the neighbourhood, stop at Cibo (Calle dei Fabbri Sestiere Sano Marco 4666) a cute delicatessen that is a jewel in the heart of the city that serves quality meets, cheeses, truffles, pasta and wine that you should for sure indulge in. Still in San Marco neighbourhood, stop for cicchetti (little sandwiches that are tradition in Venice) on Calle Della Malvasia Castello called Osteria al Portego or the hidden I Rusteghi Osteria Enoteca (Corte del Tentor, 5513) that is perhaps a little more “refined” than the traditional bar that has a lovely tiny courtyard with a wonderful wine list.
The city of Masks- Venice
Embarking on a leisurely stroll through the enchanting streets of Venice is not merely an act of window shopping; it is a journey into a realm of theatrical splendor. As you traverse the narrow alleys, boutique windows beckon with an exquisite array of elaborate costumes, mysterious masks, timeless antiques, and opulent jewelry. The very essence of this experience is heightened by the picturesque backdrop of canals crisscrossing beneath charming bridges, accompanied by the soothing symphony of passing boats.
Embarking on a leisurely stroll through the enchanting streets of Venice is not merely an act of window shopping; it is a journey into a realm of theatrical splendor. As you traverse the narrow alleys, boutique windows beckon with an exquisite array of elaborate costumes, mysterious masks, timeless antiques, and opulent jewelry. The very essence of this experience is heightened by the picturesque backdrop of canals crisscrossing beneath charming bridges, accompanied by the soothing symphony of passing boats.
In the midst of the bustling crowds, it is essential to resist distraction and seize the tranquility of the early hours. These moments allow you to absorb the profound history etched into the walls, tracing back to the V century C.E. When political power shifted to Rialto in 810 C.E., then known as Rivo Alto, Venice emerged as a prominent seaport—a vital link between medieval Europe and Asia, shaping both its economy and culture.
Venturing beyond the surface, you'll encounter a fascinating Venetian tradition manifesting in the form of masks. These symbols of freedom and transgression have adorned faces since the Middle Ages, finding a modern-day resurgence during the iconic Carnival of Venice. The city boasts numerous boutiques dedicated to these intricate masks, a visual feast that captivates the eyes and the imagination.
Among the captivating mask designs, those featuring elongated noses carry a historical resonance. Centuries ago, during plagues that befell Venice, doctors donned masks with extended noses as a sanitary measure. The echoes of this cautionary practice are seen in the masks of today's Carnival revelry.
Navigating the cityscape involves traversing its iconic bridges—a feat made more challenging with a travel stroller in tow, admirably shouldered by my husband. Intermittent pauses at standing cafes offer moments of respite, accompanied by the quintessential Italian pairing of espresso and bruschetta. A personal favorite became the local delicacy of baccala bread, an enticing blend of flavors with a hint of saltiness.
Our exploration extended beyond the tourist hubs, meandering through diverse neighborhoods and piazzas, each unveiling a new facet of Venice's timeless beauty. Amidst warm September air, we relished leisurely lunches in cozy establishments, immersing ourselves in the cultural tapestry that makes Venice an unrivaled destination.
