Orvieto
Having breakfast at our villa, a lovely ricotta fig toast before heading out for a day trip to Orvietto.
Another little town in Umbria that is made for strolling… As we drive into Orvieto there are grove after grove of silvery green olive trees that cover the rolling landscape of Umbria. I love that there are fresh olive presses around every other corner that beckon you to stop and explore. Once reached the cobbled streets of the town, we pass the shades of honey hued walls, I notice that the architecture is slightly different here. Many of the characteristic buildings are constructed out of tufo, a type of volcanic rock that leaves the surface a rough warm tone. There is a great cozy vibrancy here, cute allies, tiny ceramics and pottery shops, numerous restaurants and a less touristy lifestyle considering it is only an hour away from Rome. Orvieto is a cute medieval town that dates back to the Etruscans that sits on a volcanic bed overlooking the surrounding lush Umbria. The drive here is stunning not only the olives trees, but tall svelte cyprus trees stand along well-kept paths that lead you to yellow stuccoed masserias just like in the movie “Under the Tuscan Sun“. The highlight of the town is the majestic 14th century Roman catholic cathedral Duomo di Orvieto, but I feel the real gem hides behind the traditional cuisine. The town praises about its porchetta, truffles, local wine (Orvieto Classico), an eggless pasta (umbrichelli) and wild boar (cinghiale).
We stumbled into an ally with the cutest trattoria and managed to get the last unreserved table as the restaurant was prepping for a busy lunch hour. We could hear the buzz from the kitchen and the low sun creeped between the streets and warmed us nicely despite being late september. You could detect the first signs of fall, the changes in colour of leaves and a few trees dropped the occational dry leaf here and there. As we sipped on local wine and nibbled on a country-style wild boar terrine bruschetta that fed our souls, the little town grew on us with its simplicity. The narrow alleyways often drapped with lots of vines that bathed in the strong fall sunlight attached to the buildings that had worn throughout centuries. We also indulged in some caramelized wild boar bacon, a classic farmers lemon roasted chicken (to die-for I might say) and Melanzane alla Parmigiana. We loved to soak in the essence of Orvieto, savor the flavors and left with amazing memories.
The land of Narni
Welcome to Narni, a medieval treasure nestled amidst the rolling hills of Umbria, Italy. This enchanting town, with its roots stretching back to ancient times, beckons travelers with its rich history, captivating landscapes, and a sense of timelessness that permeates its cobblestone streets. Perched high on a hill overlooking the Nera River Valley, Narni boasts a skyline adorned with historic towers, churches, and medieval structures that tell tales of centuries past. As you traverse the labyrinthine alleys and staircases, you'll uncover hidden gems like the Rocca Albornoziana, a formidable fortress offering panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Beyond its historical allure, Narni invites exploration of its cultural nuances, from charming artisan boutiques to local trattorias serving delectable Umbrian cuisine. Whether you're an avid history buff, a nature enthusiast, or simply seeking the authentic charm of an Italian town, Narni promises a captivating journey into the heart of Umbria's cultural tapestry.
The tiny town of Narni surrounds with piazzas, fortresses and churches that attracts locals for its medieval appearance. Author CS Lewis was inspired by the name of the town using it in his novel as the fictional magical kingdom of Narnia. Some people say that he was inspired by the towns magical presence but others say the name was chosen by random and never set foot in the place. Nevertheless, it certainly sparked interest for Narni and today it is often refered as the heart of Italy as it is geographically the closest town to the center of Italy.
Like most of the charming little towns in Umbria, Narni has striking stone buildings that and narrow cobblestone streets that make up the old town. We came into town for lunch and some gelato and walked around the lovely cooling streets on a seriously hot day! The town is famous for its large Roman bridges but what I found most beautiful was the arched allies, old fiats in the corner of the streets, the colourful flowers and old fountains. To be honest, it is not my favourite town out of Umbria but this could be as I have only scratched the surface of it, but I would say its worth the visit if you are close by. I have to say my favourite towns in Umbria are Spello, Montefalco, Asissi and Gubbio.
Beautiful Todi
Welcome to Todi, a hidden gem in the heart of the Umbria region, where each cobblestone street and ancient building whispers tales of history and beauty. This enchanting hilltop town, perched majestically overlooking the Tiber Valley, offers a perfect day-trip escape into the soul of Italy. Start your journey in the Piazza del Popolo, a charming square adorned with medieval buildings and the Duomo, a masterpiece of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. As you wander through Todi's labyrinthine alleys, you'll discover hidden gems like the Church of San Fortunato, where the blend of art and spirituality transports you to another time. Take a moment to savor a leisurely lunch at one of the local trattorias, where the flavors of Umbrian cuisine come to life in dishes crafted from fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Don't miss the opportunity to explore the Tempio di Santa Maria della Consolazione, a Renaissance gem surrounded by serene gardens, offering panoramic views of the picturesque landscape. Todi's timeless charm, cultural richness, and warm hospitality ensure that your day trip becomes a cherished memory, a glimpse into the heart of Italy's past and present.
Todi, nestled within the scenic landscapes of Umbria, offers more than just historical charm; it's a destination that captivates the soul with its multifaceted allure. For art enthusiasts, the town boasts an impressive art collection at the Palazzo dei Priori, featuring works by local masters that provide a glimpse into Todi's rich artistic heritage. As you meander through the town's narrow streets, lined with artisan shops and boutiques, you'll find unique treasures, from handmade ceramics to exquisite textiles. Todi is also known for its festivals, where the community comes alive in celebration. The Todi Antiquaria Fair, for instance, transforms the town into an open-air market, inviting visitors to explore a myriad of antiques and crafts. The town's welcoming atmosphere extends to its people, who take pride in sharing their traditions and stories. Whether you're sipping espresso in a sunlit piazza or exploring the olive groves that surround Todi, this destination invites you to embrace the unhurried pace of life, creating a tapestry of experiences that linger long after your day-trip adventure. Todi, truly, is a harmonious blend of history, culture, and the warmth of Umbrian hospitality.
Sunsets in Spello
Welcome to Spello, a picturesque gem nestled in the heart of the enchanting Umbria region of Italy. This medieval town, with its labyrinthine alleys and charming squares, invites you to step back in time and immerse yourself in its rich history and timeless beauty. Spello, often referred to as the "flower town" for its vibrant floral displays, captivates visitors with its authentic Italian atmosphere and breathtaking scenery.
A magical little town that comes lit in the evenings as the sun drapes its rays across the stone pathways. From the occasional white blankets that hang on the wire lines and the colourful flower pots that crowd the streets, makes picture-esq Spello worth a visit when traveling around Umbria. I love the pale shades of the lined up buildings and how the curvy streets have dramatic lighting, beautiful archways that you can walk under. There is attention to detail in this town, which makes the evening strolls more pleasant. We sat down for antipasti before dinner to enjoy some bruschetta and truffle cheeses and worked our apatite by exploring the maze-like streets.
Exploring the Streets: Wander through Spello's cobblestone streets, where each corner reveals a new delight. Admire the well-preserved medieval architecture adorned with colorful flowers that cascade from windowsills and balconies. As you stroll, don't miss the chance to visit the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, a stunning example of Romanesque and Renaissance artistry. The intricate frescoes and awe-inspiring architecture are sure to leave you in awe.
Floral Splendor: Spello is renowned for its annual Infiorate, a floral festival held in June, during which the streets come alive with intricate flower petal designs. Artists create elaborate and vibrant carpets of flowers, transforming the town into a fragrant masterpiece. This celebration is a testament to Spello's commitment to preserving its traditions and showcasing the beauty of nature.
Culinary Delights: Indulge your taste buds in Spello's authentic Umbrian cuisine. From fresh pasta dishes to local wines, the town's restaurants offer a delightful culinary journey. Don't forget to savor the renowned olive oil produced in the region. The combination of local ingredients and traditional recipes creates a dining experience that reflects the true essence of Italian gastronomy. We ended the evening in a super cozy restaurant called La Cantina, which I highly recommend, but make sure to make reservations in advance as the restaurant was completely packed. I ate some rustic paté on toast and for the main course had a traditional wild boar stew. With my oversized chanel hanging from my hand and an off-the- shoulder shirt with ruffles on the sleeves, my camera had work as we crossed a new corner as I needed to capture the beauty, for a minute longer.
Hiking and Nature: For nature enthusiasts, the surrounding hills offer fantastic hiking opportunities. Embark on a journey through olive groves and vineyards, taking in panoramic views of the rolling Umbrian countryside. The tranquility of the landscape provides a perfect contrast to the bustling charm of the town.
Local Artisans: Spello is also a haven for artists and artisans. Explore the numerous workshops where skilled craftsmen produce traditional ceramics, textiles, and other handmade goods. You'll have the chance to purchase unique souvenirs that capture the essence of Spello's artistic heritage.
In essence, a visit to Spello is a voyage through time, where the past seamlessly blends with the present. Its well-preserved history, vibrant festivals, delectable cuisine, and natural beauty make it a destination that beckons travelers to slow down, savor each moment, and appreciate the magic of this charming Italian town. Whether you're an art aficionado, a history buff, or a nature lover, Spello offers an unforgettable experience that lingers in the heart long after you bid arrivederci.
Bevagna & Spoleto
Bevagna
Bevagna, the sleepy Roman-medieval village is situated next to the Teverone river that lies on flat ground, unlike most Umbrian towns that require quiet the hike to reach the centre! As we drove here from our villa through the scenic route we entered through the southern city gate passing the cute bridge that crosses over the Clitunno river. It was as if stepping back in time into the middle ages when entering the old town. Bevagna thrives on its medieval past and we happened to stumble in on the day the town was celebrating an annual medieval-style feast called the Gaite Market. The point of it all is to display the techniques and tools used in history to show how people lived back then. You get to taste traditional food, attend craft workshops thus locals we building booths, setting tables and walking around in Robyn Hood-like costumes to showcase for a journey into the past.
As it was early morning, we stopped for a cappuccino in Piazza Silvestri that seemed to be Bevagna’s pride and joy. Ps. Bevagna takes its siesta very seriously so everything closes super early so keep that in mind if you are planning a visit. It was still quiet in the streets and stores were slowly beginning to open and the hassle was focused on the corner cafes. The espresso machine was buzzing away and locals seemed to be in a festive state of mind and you could feel the sense of the community here. I could imagine this event brings the entire town together as it seemed as if everybody was joining in. We ordered cappuccino and sat down to watch the locals traverse the square to get from one place to another. The piazza is the standing point to two dominating Romanesque churches built in the 12th century, San Silvestro made from stone and the larger San Michele Archangelo. In the middle, there is a fountain and a civic building that seemed to gather people along with pigeons as the day prolonged.
After our delightful coffees, we took a turn to the backstreets passing the curving Vicolo del Amphiteatro and wandering through streets that had sidewalk restaurants, historic workshops, antique shops, numerous butchers, bakeries and candlestick making-shops. We noticed people lining up to a bakery and next we found ourselves in the same que. It smelled of freshly made loaf and there was a pastries display with treats like, biscotti and Sfogliatella lined up for customers to see. We noticed many locals taking these puff pastry cream horns that were coated with delicate sugar, so we decided to try one as well. They were just made, still warm with the vanilla oozing out. Before tasting it, we walked to the side street and from the corner of my eye I spotted a blush coloured wall. God bless my husband as he instantly knew what I was after. It was time for picture of the pastry with a cute blush backdrop! After a few pics, that first bite was so light and gorgeously flakey while the condensed vanilla cream hit you moments after. It was heavenly and we did not care that we had sugar all over our faces (see below) and we gobbled it up fairly quickly! It was sweet but light and no wonder everybody was lining up to buy them!
Spoleto
Spoleto, Umbria Italy
Plotted on a hillside, Spoleto is a beautiful artsy town with one major pathway leading up through the winding streets up to the 12th century duomo, that is a fine sight set against a backdrop of lush valleys.
Walking up the pathway, you are mesmerized with pastel walls, medieval architecture, dashes of colour from both ends of the spectrum and grand arches, a mark that is left by the Romans. Spoleto is a dream to photograph as the light is captured and cornered in different nooks depending on the time of the day. It is gentle and dramatic, an admirable little town and a “historical picnic” according to lonely planet.
Today the town is known for its festival called Festival dei Due Mondi, a party of many days that includes opera, dancing, music and art. Mr. N and I loved the walk through the old town, we stopped for some amazing espresso, shopped in cheese shops, spice shops and obviously stopped for a glass of wine during our hike.
Gubbio, A Medieval Jewel in Umbria
Welcome to Gubbio, a captivating medieval town cradled within the rolling hills of the Umbria region in Italy. With a history that dates back to ancient times, Gubbio exudes an irresistible charm, inviting visitors to meander through its narrow cobblestone streets and discover a wealth of historical treasures. The town's well-preserved architecture, including the imposing Palazzo dei Consoli and the awe-inspiring Basilica of Saint Ubaldo, serves as a testament to Gubbio's rich cultural heritage. Nestled in the scenic Apennine Mountains, Gubbio offers panoramic views that unfold like a masterpiece, enticing travelers to explore its medieval alleys, experience local traditions, and savor the authentic flavors of Umbrian cuisine. Whether you're drawn to its ancient past, captivated by its scenic landscapes, or enticed by the warmth of its hospitality, Gubbio stands as a timeless destination that promises an immersive journey into the heart of Italy's historical and cultural tapestry.
History of Gubbio
With centuries of history behind every corner, every cobblestone evocative street leads you to another gothic palace or church that mesmerised with its stunning preservation. Dating back to the pre-Roman times ,Gubbio is the oldest town in Umbria that is small and angular perched up on the steep slopes of Monte Ingino.
Gubbio, an ancient town in the heart of Umbria, Italy, boasts a history that spans millennia. Traces of its Etruscan and Roman roots are evident in the archaeological remains scattered throughout the area. However, it was during the medieval period that Gubbio truly flourished. The town became a prominent center for art, culture, and commerce, as reflected in the architectural marvels like the Palazzo dei Consoli and the Basilica of Saint Ubaldo. Gubbio's strategic location on the trade routes contributed to its prosperity, and the town's independent spirit is symbolized by the "Ceri Festival," a centuries-old event where enormous wooden structures are carried through the streets in a display of communal strength. Gubbio's culture is deeply intertwined with its historical legacy, and the residents take pride in preserving traditions that have endured for centuries, making it a living testament to the enduring spirit of Italian heritage.
Gubbio is a real culinary treat that has great views over the Umbrian countryside and the architecture spreads of gray limestone that brings you back in time. The cuisine not only includes the intense taste of white truffle but also dishes based around pasta, meat, cheese and vegetable. We walked around the old town and saw stores for pottery, leather, iron, gold and a little bit of embroidery and is evident that the town is rich in historical and artistic heritage. The main attractions include the magnificent Palazzo dei Consoli (Consular Palace) with the most magnificent sunset, the renaissance The Palazzo Ducale (Ducal Palace) and the cathedral.
Restaurant tip: Officina dei Sapori (Via dei Consoli, 13, 06024 Gubbio PG, Italy)
September in Umbria
As the amber hues of September cast their warm glow over the undulating landscapes of Umbria, we embarked on a journey into the heart of Italy—a sojourn that unfolded in a harmonious dance with the region's lauded "slow life." Nestled in the embrace of our rented villa, our days were marked by the unhurried cadence of Italian living, a celebration of simplicity, culinary richness, and the exploration of nearby towns that echoed with centuries of history.
Embracing the Slow Italian lifestyle
As the amber hues of September cast their warm glow over the undulating landscapes of Umbria, we embarked on a journey into the heart of Italy—a sojourn that unfolded in a harmonious dance with the region's lauded "slow life." Nestled in the embrace of our rented villa, our days were marked by the unhurried cadence of Italian living, a celebration of simplicity, culinary richness, and the exploration of nearby towns that echoed with centuries of history.
Villa Living: A Retreat into Tranquility
Our choice of accommodation, a rustic villa tucked away in the verdant hills of Umbria, became a sanctuary for the soul. Surrounded by olive groves and vineyards, the villa encapsulated the essence of "slow life"—an invitation to savor every moment, to relish the gentle rustle of leaves, and to immerse ourselves in the quietude of rural living. Each sunrise and sunset became a canvas painted with the hues of tranquility, offering a daily reminder to embrace the unhurried pace of our Italian retreat.
Culinary Revelry: From Farm to Table
The heart of our slow-paced Italian experience lay in the kitchen, where we joyfully embraced the farm-to-table ethos that permeates Umbria. Market visits and local farm explorations led to our culinary escapades, transforming every meal into a ritual of flavors. Whether it was the robust notes of a local Sagrantino wine, the golden glow of freshly pressed olive oil, or the earthy allure of truffles, our palates danced to the rhythm of Umbria's culinary symphony.
Exploring Nearby Towns: Timeless Beauty Unveiled
Venturing beyond the confines of our villa, we set out to explore the nearby towns that dot the Umbrian landscape. Perugia, with its medieval charm; Assisi, adorned with the spiritual aura of St. Francis; and Spoleto, where ancient and modern seamlessly coexist—each town narrated a tale of history, art, and the enduring beauty of Italian heritage. The slow exploration of narrow cobblestone streets and leisurely café stops allowed us to absorb the rich tapestry of each town at our own unhurried pace.
Art of Dolce Far Niente: Sweetness of Doing Nothing
In the spirit of "dolce far niente" or the sweetness of doing nothing, our afternoons unfolded in blissful idleness. Be it basking in the Tuscan sun by the villa's pool or meandering through the local markets, we found joy in the simplicity of existence. Umbria, with its timeless landscapes and ancient charm, invited us to pause, to reflect, and to appreciate the beauty that emerges when life unfolds at its own leisurely tempo.
Our September retreat in Umbria became a harmonious symphony of slow living—an Italian serenade that transcended the ordinary. In the quiet moments and the unhurried exploration of nearby towns, we discovered the profound beauty that resides in the art of slowing down. Umbria, with its rolling hills, vineyards, and ancient towns, not only offered a picturesque backdrop but became the canvas upon which we painted our own version of the Italian slow life—a masterpiece of moments, flavors, and the timeless allure of la dolce vita.
