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The seaside Gallipoli

It was a brutally hot day for being late september when we visited this little seaside town for the first time and all I could remember was, how amazing it would be to dip into the crystal clear waters! We took a drive from Oria to Gallipoli as we were staying in Masseria Palombara and decided to make the most of visiting beautiful places near by. The beauty of Apulia is that it is scattered with breathtaking towns all across the coast making it an ideal holiday destination as there is much to explore at a leisurely pace.

‘An old island town with surrounding transparent water’

It was a brutally hot day for being late september when we visited this little seaside town for the first time and all I could remember was, how amazing it would be to dip into the crystal clear waters! We took a drive from Oria to Gallipoli as we were staying in Masseria Palombara and decided to make the most of visiting beautiful places near by. The beauty of Apulia is that it is scattered with breathtaking towns all across the coast making it an ideal holiday destination as there is much to explore at a leisurely pace.

Gallipoli is located in Puglia’s Salento peninsula on the Ionian coast. Famous for its beaches and island lifestyle, this little fishing village is home to impressive baroque churches and a grand palazzi that is a reflection of the towns former wealth as a trading port. The charming limestone old town surrounds with a seafront promenade that circles around the town. The labyrinth-like old town spills with little cafes and restaurants during the summer months allowing time to stand still for a while.

We saw people lounging in the clear water and seeking shade under the umbrellas on the beaches as we walked up to the little old town through the port front. We pass through a little fish market that sold fresh oysters, sea urchins, mussels and all kinds of fish, fresh from the morning catch. From the moment I saw people buying fresh sea urchins and eating them on the go, I knew I would like the vibe of this town…

Both the north and south coastline surrounds with transparent water beaches making Gallipoli a seaside summer escape for holidaying Italians. This place is an evident summer town that comes to life during the warmer season, just like the town of Vieste.

Gallipoli translates to “beautiful city” in Greek and beautiful it certainly was.  The town breathes the salty sea air, while the paths fill with rusty iron balconies and aquatic doors. Elders sit at their door step, others are enjoying drinks in little nooks and fisherman unwind their nets by the sea and the slow pace of this town invites you to stay. A relaxing stroll and a stop for a wine, espresso or a cooling lemon-gelato that almost instantly melted in our hands was a great way to spend the afternoon. We visited during siesta hours just post lunch time, so the town was peaceful and calm beating to the rhythm of the waves.

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The limstone town, Vieste.

Welcome to Vieste, a captivating coastal town nestled along the ruggedly beautiful Gargano Peninsula in southern Italy. Perched on the Adriatic Sea, Vieste enchants visitors with its dramatic cliffs, golden beaches, and a historic town that whispers tales of ancient maritime heritage. Wander through narrow alleys adorned with whitewashed buildings adorned with colorful flowers, each corner revealing a piece of the town's rich history. Renowned for its iconic Pizzomunno, a towering monolith that stands guard over the azure waters, Vieste beckons travelers to explore its picturesque Old Town, where medieval charm meets the vibrancy of Italian coastal life. With its sun-drenched landscapes, crystalline waters, and the warm embrace of the Mediterranean breeze, Vieste promises an unforgettable sojourn along the sun-kissed shores of the Gargano coast.

‘The white washed cliff town”

Welcome to Vieste, a captivating coastal town nestled along the ruggedly beautiful Gargano Peninsula in southern Italy. Perched on the Adriatic Sea, Vieste enchants visitors with its dramatic cliffs, golden beaches, and a historic town that whispers tales of ancient maritime heritage. Wander through narrow alleys adorned with whitewashed buildings adorned with colorful flowers, each corner revealing a piece of the town's rich history. Renowned for its iconic Pizzomunno, a towering monolith that stands guard over the azure waters, Vieste beckons travelers to explore its picturesque Old Town, where medieval charm meets the vibrancy of Italian coastal life. With its sun-drenched landscapes, crystalline waters, and the warm embrace of the Mediterranean breeze, Vieste promises an unforgettable sojourn along the sun-kissed shores of the Gargano coast.

Vieste is the type of niche place where you can slide into your summer loafers, let your hair soak the seaside air and take a breather glazing into the turquoise sea. While you seek for shade under the bougainvillea, shop for local produce from little trucks and buy olive oil, cheese and spices from the market to take back home. Tuck your fingers into the most delicious seafood or orecchiette and let your legs get lost in the all white streets that need no introduction. In all honesty, the slow cooked seafood stew and tuna tartar brought us back to this town that I have been craving the last four years.

The Gargano Peninsula exists about 5 hours from Rome via car in the province of Foggia, Apulia. The “less known” region differs from the more visited areas like Salento or the Valle d’Itria with its lush pine forests, olive groves, limestone cliffs, seacaves and endless beaches. From the region we have visited Vieste and Monte Sant Angelo, the last time four years ago. We always wanted to come back to Vieste, so this time around it was perfectly on route on our drive down to Puglia. Apparently other cute towns in Gargano include, Vico, Manfredonia, Rodi and Peschici.

Nevertheless, Vieste is a pretty seaside town that sits on a limestone cliff with a picture-esq old town that lines with beaches and overlooks the Adriatic sea. It’s a typical lazy town built from a maze of steep stairs, where washing hangs from simple white houses that surrounds with a panoramic walk around it all. Just like any other Apulian old town, it is made for wandering. Visit the 11th century Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, but in Romanesque style and snap the cutest pictures just below the stairs. Here you are surrounded with white brick, darling arches, you can hear the canary birds singing from inside someones house and the gentle sea breeze pushes through the narrow streets giving some form of comfort on a hot day. Stop for cappuccino at carpenter on the little piazza of Largo Seggio, have lunch at box 19 (order the seafood stew) and dinner at a cozy cave restaurant called al dragone.

Due to our itinerary, we only stayed for 1 night & the following day but it was enough time to explore the cute streets, shop at the market for spices and experience the amazing food that the South has to offer. Vieste is a total summer town that makes a great base to explore the Gargano region.

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Bleached Beauty, Cisternino

Nestled in the heart of the enchanting Puglia region, Cisternino emerges as a quintessential Italian gem, where time seems to stand still amid its historic charm. Cisternino is located in the province of Brindisi located right next to other gems, such as Martina Franca and Locorondo.

‘Charming little Gem in the heart of the trulli region’

Nestled in the heart of the enchanting Puglia region, Cisternino emerges as a quintessential Italian gem, where time seems to stand still amid its historic charm. Cisternino is located in the province of Brindisi located right next to other gems, such as Martina Franca and Locorondo. It is in the heart of Puglia’s trulli region that makes the most scenic (and my all time favourite) drive when exploring the little towns of Valle d’Itria. This picturesque town, perched atop the rolling hills of the Itria Valley, captivates visitors with its whitewashed buildings adorned with vibrant flowers and labyrinthine alleyways steeped in history. Renowned for its unique circular layout and traditional trulli houses, Cisternino provides an authentic glimpse into Puglia's rich cultural heritage. As the sun sets, casting a warm glow over the rustic stone facades, Cisternino transforms into a captivating haven where the echoes of bygone eras harmonize with the lively ambiance of local trattorias and family-run osterias. A visit to Cisternino promises an immersive journey into the soul of Puglia, where age-old traditions and modern allure coalesce seamlessly.

Surprisignly we have put a blind eye to Cisternino’s existance, even though we have been driving around (and criss-cross) the region for many years, thus we were happy to discover something new! We randomly drove to Cisternino from Masseria Palombara one morning and came back for lunch another day as we were curious to try their butcher style restaurant.

Listed as one the most beautiful small town of Italy, Cisternino has its obvious charm with a hint of Greek influence (originally found by greek settlers), Medieval style architecture where streets intertwine with beautiful archways, bleached streets, hidden courtyards and balconies awash in flowers. The Torre Civica is the gateway to the historic centre that seems to be remained virtually intact for centuries. Visit the 13th century Church of San Nicola sits on the foundation of the former Greek orthodox monastery and breath in the countryside views spotting cone-shaped trulli roofs in one of the cozy parks. Elderly men sit in shaded park benches in little groups and elderly women often sweep in front of their homes arranging flower pots keeping everything in pristine condition. Cisternino has a similar look to Locorotondo and it’s easy to fall in love with its understated charm.

The day starts with locals sipping on espresso at little piazzas with large white umbrellas, when the town only starts to awake. Boutiques open far later in little towns in the South and here, it’s perfectly acceptable to enjoy a slow morning while reading the paper. Nobody is running around and there is a respect for time here. As evening progresses, people gather for an aperitivo to wind down from the day. Community seems to be tight, a bit artsy and the ambiance is charming. For the size of the little town, it seems to have a numerous amount of different cafes and restaurants, and macelleria-eateries, meat markets where you choose what you want and they grill or roast it for you while you wait. Little did we know that this town is famous for its barbecuing butchers, this was a total treat for my meat lover husband. We ate ourselves into a total food coma from having a 1kg t-bone steak, local sausages/parcels (filled with mince, cheese and ham, carpaccio, baked potato etc. We sat outside with a carafe of local wine and indulged in total goodness, finishing the meal off with a strong espresso from little plastic cups. Not only is this eating style economical, it brings a sense of togetherness, you see the fresh produce in front of you and it’s simple, the way it should be.

The darling square of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele seems to be the heart of the town. With a tiny chocolate shop (chocolab) to your right and the clock tower in front, let the little roads lead you its tiny charming streets. Start your morning at the tiny cafe ‘Bistrot food art & design’ and sip on some rich cappuccino sitting in the light sun in one of the mosaic tables observing people go by. Have a bruschetta and extra avocados and let the coffee work it’s magic on you. Stroll around the beautiful town, make sure to stop at the Via Giulio II for the most envious flower spilling balconies. Visit the little boutiques and make your way to lunch at the butcher style Al Vecchio Fornello.

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The Baroque city, Lecce

Embark on a journey through the picturesque city of Lecce, a treasure trove of art and architecture, where every step unfolds a wondrous spectacle. Known as the "Florence of the south," Lecce beckons you to begin your day with the local ritual of sipping iced almond milk, an invigorating prelude to the enchanting adventure that awaits within its ancient walls.

Embark on a journey through the picturesque city of Lecce, a treasure trove of art and architecture, where every step unfolds a wondrous spectacle. Known as the "Florence of the south," Lecce beckons you to begin your day with the local ritual of sipping iced almond milk, an invigorating prelude to the enchanting adventure that awaits within its ancient walls.

As you traverse through the arches into the walled old town, let your eyes become the guide, absorbing the intricate details that adorn the baroque-style buildings. Lecce, the crown jewel of the Salentine Peninsula, boasts a limestone historic center that echoes with a rich history spanning 2000 years. Brimming with rustic charm, the city invites you to wander aimlessly, allowing the allure of flower-filled balconies and impromptu parma ham pit stops to weave their magic.

No sightseeing guide is required in this city of experience, where every cobblestone street whispers tales of Roman ruins, a 2nd-century amphitheater, 22 churches flaunting ornate baroque designs, and the grandeur of Piazza del Duomo leading you into a maze of beautiful, narrow streets. Feel the weight of history in the sandstone walls as you lose yourself in the golden-hued labyrinth.

Lecce's charm extends beyond the historical day; it transforms into a lively hub in the evenings. Cozy restaurants and wine bars beckon, offering ideal settings for leisurely lunches, glasses of wine, and indulgent antipasti. The city comes alive with the hum of people gathered in small bars, meandering through the streets, or exploring the myriad of inviting shops that line the alleys.

Nestled in this vibrant city is the charming hidden gem, Mantateluré (Via Vittorio dei Prioli, 42), a haven where exquisite rooms and a charming terrace create an idyllic retreat. The attentive staff adds to the allure, providing valuable recommendations, such as the robust and rustic Nonna Totti—a culinary haven reminiscent of your grandmother's authentic Italian cooking. Lecce, a city that seamlessly blends history, charm, and culinary delights, awaits your exploration.

5 restaurants in Lecce

Alle Due Corti

  • Located in the heart of Lecce, Alle Due Corti offers a refined dining experience with a focus on traditional Salentine cuisine. The menu features a delightful array of local specialties, prepared with a modern twist. The charming atmosphere and attentive service add to the overall dining pleasure.

  1. Trattoria Le Zie

    • A hidden gem tucked away in the winding streets of Lecce, Trattoria Le Zie is celebrated for its authentic Puglian dishes. From handmade pasta to fresh seafood, the menu showcases the region's culinary prowess. The cozy ambiance and friendly staff make it a favorite among locals and visitors alike.

  2. Osteria degli Spiriti

    • For a gastronomic journey through the flavors of Salento, Osteria degli Spiriti is a must-visit. Set in a historic building with a charming courtyard, the restaurant offers a diverse menu featuring locally sourced ingredients. The extensive wine list complements the culinary experience, making it a top choice for food enthusiasts.

  3. Mamma Elvira

    • Mamma Elvira is a family-run restaurant that captures the essence of home-cooked Italian meals. The menu reflects the warmth and authenticity of Puglian cuisine, featuring hearty portions of pasta, fresh seafood, and delectable desserts. The intimate setting and personalized service create a welcoming atmosphere for diners.

  4. Corte dei Pandolfi

    • Nestled in a picturesque courtyard, Corte dei Pandolfi is a charming eatery offering a fusion of traditional and contemporary dishes. The chefs showcase their creativity with inventive flavor combinations, highlighting the diverse culinary influences of the region. The cozy setting and emphasis on fresh, local ingredients make it a standout dining destination in Lecce.

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Beyond the Grand Canal

Undoubtedly, Venice stands as one of Europe's most tourist-laden cities, yet the true enchantment unfurls when one ventures beyond the well-trodden paths, delving deeper into an authentic Venetian experience. Navigating the labyrinthine streets, each turn reveals hidden gems — captivating piazzas adorned with winding arteries, imposing clock towers, centuries-old churches, and charming eateries. Amidst the maze of tucked canals and gothic walls, Venice emanates a majestic presence impossible to ignore.

Undoubtedly, Venice stands as one of Europe's most tourist-laden cities, yet the true enchantment unfurls when one ventures beyond the well-trodden paths, delving deeper into an authentic Venetian experience. Navigating the labyrinthine streets, each turn reveals hidden gems — captivating piazzas adorned with winding arteries, imposing clock towers, centuries-old churches, and charming eateries. Amidst the maze of tucked canals and gothic walls, Venice emanates a majestic presence impossible to ignore.

Venice, often a subject of controversy and varied opinions, has garnered mixed reviews. Despite my initial hesitation, I abstained from Venice for nine years, fearing a chaotic environment and a lost sense of authenticity. However, a week spent in the city proved my apprehensions wrong, leaving me utterly mesmerized by its architectural and artistic grandeur. Venice, a place that demands time to uncover its layers, should not be hurried through. The city has earned a reputation for being described as dirty, touristy, overpriced, and chaotic. This perception stems largely from the influx of cruise ship visitors, around 30,000 per day, converging on the main sights, creating a cramped spectacle in the narrow streets. I empathize with the frustration this may cause, particularly in the height of summer. My advice is threefold: avoid the high season, venture away from the main sights to escape the crowds, and explore early morning or late evening when the city breathes with a serene calmness.

Spending a week in Venice allowed us to delve deeper into its roots, discovering a city that unwinds and reveals its peaceful side once the day-trippers disperse. By deviating from the well-trodden paths, one can navigate a Venice large enough to avoid overwhelming masses. May, away from the prime summer influx, proved to be an ideal choice for our exploration. The Rialto Bridge and San Marco Square, chaotic during the day, transform during sunrise into serene havens with a scattering of photographers and locals enjoying their morning coffees.

Addressing the commonly perceived expense of Venice, it's true that the city can be pricey compared to other Italian counterparts. However, with meticulous research, one can explore Venice on a budget. Dining costs vary, and occasional service fees can be steep, but diligent planning can help mitigate expenses. Traveling by boat might incur costs, but opting for a water bus provides a budget-friendly alternative.

In conclusion, Venice merits exploration, inviting you to let your gaze wander across weathered facades, waterlogged corridors, and tranquil piazzas, revealing the city's timeless allure.

Immerse yourself in the subtle tapestry of Venetian details — the gracefully arched windows, reminiscent of Moorish design, crowned with domes and adorned with glass crafted from repurposed bottle bottoms. Take notice of the intricate wrought-iron handrails that guide your journey, each curve telling a story of skilled craftsmanship. Wander through enchanting passageways, where vibrant flowers and trailing vines spill over, creating a picturesque cascade of natural beauty. Venice, a city steeped in the patina of time, offers a palette of fading colors that seamlessly blend with the tranquil blue-green reflections of its waters against historic facades.

Venture into the heart of the city and discover tucked-away shops nestled in the corners of splendid Gothic buildings. Each corner holds the promise of hidden treasures, with antique wonders that captivate the eye and transport you to a bygone era. Venice, in all its architectural splendor, invites you to unravel its secrets, encouraging you to explore the delicate interplay of history and aesthetics within its charming streets. Psst! The antiques here are nothing short of stunning, awaiting the discerning eye to unearth their stories and add a touch of timeless elegance to your journey.

A few restaurant options:

  • Porta d’Acqua in the San Polo Sestieri, where you will find a heavenly burrata

  • Al gondolieri for a cozy dinner

  • Alle Testiere for great seafood but Burano ( Gato Nero) provides an amazing seafood experience as well.

  • Cicheri ( little tapas sandwiches): Al Marca or La Cantina

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Bacari in Venice, the local way.

Venice, a city suspended on water, is a mesmerizing labyrinth of canals, historic architecture, and cultural richness. Its unique charm lies not only in the grandeur of St. Mark's Square or the iconic gondola rides but also in the intimate corners where locals and visitors alike immerse themselves in the Bacari culture.

‘Gone for an espresso, some bacari & Venetian delights.. local style’

Venice, a city suspended on water, is a mesmerizing labyrinth of canals, historic architecture, and cultural richness. Its unique charm lies not only in the grandeur of St. Mark's Square or the iconic gondola rides but also in the intimate corners where locals and visitors alike immerse themselves in the Bacari culture.

Venice is surrounded with cute little espresso or bacari (this basically refers to the antipasti or tapas way of eating, but with Venetian customs) bars that make the winding streets interesting to roam. You may pass little vegetable stands, chocolate shops, delis and you always want to seek for places, where locals are. We came across a few cute places that I thought should be worth a share, along with the most beautiful views that came along the way. You often find locas eating cicchetti and ordering, “n’ombra de vin” or “uno spritz” standing up at the bar counter or around a wine barrel having a great time.

Walking around here is simple beautiful, I’m so drawn to all the muted blue shades that keep appearing in window shutters and you become so impressed by the attention to detail. I can easily look past the clichés of Venice and observe a little deeper to find a city filled with art and history. I love how dense Venice really is, you keep finding little hidden shops and cafés by accident, which you end up loving.

Have bacari at bistrot (Chat qui rit) and indulge in a cheese and parma ham platter and crab meat with a divine salty reduction. The cheese selection here won some type of award a few years ago and it was a great way to end the meal. Stop for an espresso (also a great cappuccino here) and pastries at a shabby cafe where all the locals lingered at caffé Brasilia Sestiere San Marco 3658a. Locals also love caffeteria Doria, it was buzzing in the mornings with people standing by the bar taking shots of 1euro espresso. There is a great authentic vibe here and equally, in the evenings it crowds with people who come together for wine and apperol. This place has a great atmosphere despite it being close to Saint Mark’s Basilica, that is filled with tourists. While you’re in the neighbourhood, stop at Cibo (Calle dei Fabbri Sestiere Sano Marco 4666) a cute delicatessen that is a jewel in the heart of the city that serves quality meets, cheeses, truffles, pasta and wine that you should for sure indulge in. Still in San Marco neighbourhood, stop for cicchetti (little sandwiches that are tradition in Venice) on Calle Della Malvasia Castello called Osteria al Portego or the hidden I Rusteghi Osteria Enoteca (Corte del Tentor, 5513) that is perhaps a little more “refined” than the traditional bar that has a lovely tiny courtyard with a wonderful wine list.

 

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The city of Masks- Venice

Embarking on a leisurely stroll through the enchanting streets of Venice is not merely an act of window shopping; it is a journey into a realm of theatrical splendor. As you traverse the narrow alleys, boutique windows beckon with an exquisite array of elaborate costumes, mysterious masks, timeless antiques, and opulent jewelry. The very essence of this experience is heightened by the picturesque backdrop of canals crisscrossing beneath charming bridges, accompanied by the soothing symphony of passing boats.

Embarking on a leisurely stroll through the enchanting streets of Venice is not merely an act of window shopping; it is a journey into a realm of theatrical splendor. As you traverse the narrow alleys, boutique windows beckon with an exquisite array of elaborate costumes, mysterious masks, timeless antiques, and opulent jewelry. The very essence of this experience is heightened by the picturesque backdrop of canals crisscrossing beneath charming bridges, accompanied by the soothing symphony of passing boats.

In the midst of the bustling crowds, it is essential to resist distraction and seize the tranquility of the early hours. These moments allow you to absorb the profound history etched into the walls, tracing back to the V century C.E. When political power shifted to Rialto in 810 C.E., then known as Rivo Alto, Venice emerged as a prominent seaport—a vital link between medieval Europe and Asia, shaping both its economy and culture.

Venturing beyond the surface, you'll encounter a fascinating Venetian tradition manifesting in the form of masks. These symbols of freedom and transgression have adorned faces since the Middle Ages, finding a modern-day resurgence during the iconic Carnival of Venice. The city boasts numerous boutiques dedicated to these intricate masks, a visual feast that captivates the eyes and the imagination.

Among the captivating mask designs, those featuring elongated noses carry a historical resonance. Centuries ago, during plagues that befell Venice, doctors donned masks with extended noses as a sanitary measure. The echoes of this cautionary practice are seen in the masks of today's Carnival revelry.

Navigating the cityscape involves traversing its iconic bridges—a feat made more challenging with a travel stroller in tow, admirably shouldered by my husband. Intermittent pauses at standing cafes offer moments of respite, accompanied by the quintessential Italian pairing of espresso and bruschetta. A personal favorite became the local delicacy of baccala bread, an enticing blend of flavors with a hint of saltiness.

Our exploration extended beyond the tourist hubs, meandering through diverse neighborhoods and piazzas, each unveiling a new facet of Venice's timeless beauty. Amidst warm September air, we relished leisurely lunches in cozy establishments, immersing ourselves in the cultural tapestry that makes Venice an unrivaled destination.

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September in Umbria

As the amber hues of September cast their warm glow over the undulating landscapes of Umbria, we embarked on a journey into the heart of Italy—a sojourn that unfolded in a harmonious dance with the region's lauded "slow life." Nestled in the embrace of our rented villa, our days were marked by the unhurried cadence of Italian living, a celebration of simplicity, culinary richness, and the exploration of nearby towns that echoed with centuries of history.

Embracing the Slow Italian lifestyle

As the amber hues of September cast their warm glow over the undulating landscapes of Umbria, we embarked on a journey into the heart of Italy—a sojourn that unfolded in a harmonious dance with the region's lauded "slow life." Nestled in the embrace of our rented villa, our days were marked by the unhurried cadence of Italian living, a celebration of simplicity, culinary richness, and the exploration of nearby towns that echoed with centuries of history.

Villa Living: A Retreat into Tranquility

Our choice of accommodation, a rustic villa tucked away in the verdant hills of Umbria, became a sanctuary for the soul. Surrounded by olive groves and vineyards, the villa encapsulated the essence of "slow life"—an invitation to savor every moment, to relish the gentle rustle of leaves, and to immerse ourselves in the quietude of rural living. Each sunrise and sunset became a canvas painted with the hues of tranquility, offering a daily reminder to embrace the unhurried pace of our Italian retreat.

Culinary Revelry: From Farm to Table

The heart of our slow-paced Italian experience lay in the kitchen, where we joyfully embraced the farm-to-table ethos that permeates Umbria. Market visits and local farm explorations led to our culinary escapades, transforming every meal into a ritual of flavors. Whether it was the robust notes of a local Sagrantino wine, the golden glow of freshly pressed olive oil, or the earthy allure of truffles, our palates danced to the rhythm of Umbria's culinary symphony.

Exploring Nearby Towns: Timeless Beauty Unveiled

Venturing beyond the confines of our villa, we set out to explore the nearby towns that dot the Umbrian landscape. Perugia, with its medieval charm; Assisi, adorned with the spiritual aura of St. Francis; and Spoleto, where ancient and modern seamlessly coexist—each town narrated a tale of history, art, and the enduring beauty of Italian heritage. The slow exploration of narrow cobblestone streets and leisurely café stops allowed us to absorb the rich tapestry of each town at our own unhurried pace.

Art of Dolce Far Niente: Sweetness of Doing Nothing

In the spirit of "dolce far niente" or the sweetness of doing nothing, our afternoons unfolded in blissful idleness. Be it basking in the Tuscan sun by the villa's pool or meandering through the local markets, we found joy in the simplicity of existence. Umbria, with its timeless landscapes and ancient charm, invited us to pause, to reflect, and to appreciate the beauty that emerges when life unfolds at its own leisurely tempo.

Our September retreat in Umbria became a harmonious symphony of slow living—an Italian serenade that transcended the ordinary. In the quiet moments and the unhurried exploration of nearby towns, we discovered the profound beauty that resides in the art of slowing down. Umbria, with its rolling hills, vineyards, and ancient towns, not only offered a picturesque backdrop but became the canvas upon which we painted our own version of the Italian slow life—a masterpiece of moments, flavors, and the timeless allure of la dolce vita.

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Tuscany Guide- Three Smaller towns in the region

I wanted to share a small guide of three wonderful places we visited, all located close to Siena. We stayed in Montepulciano for three nights and during that time we drove to see other neighbouring towns, such as Montalcino and Pienza. If you are looking for picturesque little towns all in close proximity, get ready to take out your camera and walk along these cobbled streets. We traveled with our 8 month old and found all these destinations baby friendly and possible to walk around with a stroller.

Montepulciano

I wanted to share a small guide of three wonderful places we visited, all located close to Siena. We stayed in Montepulciano for three nights and during that time we drove to see other neighbouring towns, such as Montalcino and Pienza. If you are looking for picturesque little towns all in close proximity, get ready to take out your camera and walk along these cobbled streets. We traveled with our 8 month old and found all these destinations baby friendly and possible to walk around with a stroller.

A fairytale in Tuscany – Montepulciano

Where the wine is velvety smooth and rich in density, Montepulciano is a stunning hilltop town in the south of Tuscany in the province of Siena. It is surrounded with lush vineyards and the scenery of Val d’orcia and Val di Chiana valleys and the town dates back to the 4th and 5th century BC. The old town is a typical cobbled street beauty with one main road that leads up a steep walk into the centre. There are churches, idyllic piazzas, restaurants and wine shops around every corner. The town is filled with majestic buildings that have been worked on by many famous Renaissance artists like, Andrea Pozzo, Giuliano da Sangallo and Michelozzo. The town is not that big in itself, we did some wine sampling, a bit of shopping and dining. We found fabulous hand made copper pots and pans to take back home with us, along with some red wine. Like all towns in Italy, Montepulciano was very child friendly and I love how all the local elderlies stop and talk to the little one in the stroller.

The cozy Pecorino di Pienza

Pienza is only a 20 minute drive from Montepulciano so it is definitely worth a visit. We fell in love with this UNESCO-recognized town, partly due to its refined charm. The town is a cosy little spot that literally has a linger of pecorino cheese in the air. We visited the town early in the morning, strolled around and ate breakfast before our baby’s nap time, who later fell asleep in the car as we drove to visit another town nearby. Pienza is also located in Val d’Orcia, that is known as a picturesque Renaissance town that has been influenced by Pope Pius II, as it was his home town. By the main square there is a cosy little cafe that serves the most airy apricots croissants and a frothy cappuccino. Right across the cafe is a cheese shop (that you will find all over town), where you can by the most glorious aged pecorino that we sampled with our croissants. It was the most perfect morning with my boys, we sat and sipped on our coffee and watched locals open their boutiques as the day began. Walk around the edge of the town and overlook the views into the Tuscany countryside. If you are here in the evening, I would recommend to stop for a glass of wine as the sun begins to set overlooking the hills while sampling on cheese and honey.

Another wine lovers town- Montalcino

Another Mecca for wine lovers, this medieval town is world-famous for its renowned red wine, the Brunello di Montalcino, which is considered the absolute Italian wine in Tuscany. The wine ages for at least 2 years in oak barrels, and then it ages for at least 4 months in the bottle and it tastes earth and deep, rich with flavour. A 45 minute drive from Montepulciano, we loved this town; the antiquee stores, the delicious food (and wine) and atmosphere it offers. We had an amazing tartar lunch and hearty pasta and sampled on stunning red wines as we explored the town. A stroll through Montalcino reveals enchanting historical attractions, small churches and picturesque squares. With church bells ringing in the backdrop as we sample on deep ruby coloured Brunello di Montalcino. It is completed according to the strictest DOCG rules and is made with a single type of grape, the Sangiovese Grosso grape. The town is best explored by roaming without a plan and makes an ideal spot to visit for lunch.

Montalcino

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France, Provence, Travel Guide Hanna Sihvonen France, Provence, Travel Guide Hanna Sihvonen

‘Cucuron market day & lunch in Ansouis’

During our Provence road trip, we stayed in Lourmarin for three nights and we were recommended by our B&B owner to visit cucuron (only 4km away), because it was Tuesday, the town’s official market day. Ansouis and Cucuron stand as twin jewels, each offering a distinct yet harmonious slice of Provençal paradise.

During our Provence road trip, we stayed in Lourmarin for three nights and we were recommended by our B&B owner to visit cucuron (only 4km away), because it was Tuesday, the town’s official market day. Ansouis and Cucuron stand as twin jewels, each offering a distinct yet harmonious slice of Provençal paradise.

Ansouis, graced by its medieval castle and winding streets, exudes a rustic charm that seamlessly blends with the surrounding vineyards and olive groves. Meanwhile, Cucuron enchants with its picturesque village square, ancient pond, and vibrant markets, creating a delightful blend of history and local vibrancy. Visiting Ansouis and Cucuron in tandem is a journey through time and tradition, where you can stroll through medieval alleys, savor local cuisine at charming cafes, and immerse yourself in the warm hospitality of these Provençal communities. The proximity of these two gems allows for a seamless exploration, offering a perfect pairing for travelers eager to experience the timeless allure of Provence through the distinct lenses of Ansouis and Cucuron.

Little did we know that cucuron is actually the same little village that was used in the movie “A good year” with Russell Crowe, during the date scene around the beautiful pool (called a bassin) when it starts to pour with rain. I absolutely love that movie especially because of the quintessential provincial beauty and it was quite surreal spending the morning in such a place. I remember admiring the perfectly manicured trees already in the movie, but in real life they were even more breathtaking reflecting against the water in the bassin. Cucuron is a member of the Most Beautiful Villages of France association and is easily explored in under an hour. If you are in Provence, make sure to find out what markets are going on in the different villages near you.

Cucuron, home to about 2000 villagers is a cute little village in the Vaucluse region on the south side of the Luberon mountains. We arrived at the market really early because we wanted to see other village as well. After some flaky croissants and a large frothy coffee in one of the little cafes around the basin, we walked the market and purchased a few goodies to take back home with us. My favourite purchase was the pistachio nougat that could cure anyone’s sweet tooth. This market would be the perfect place to shop for food if we were staying in a villa where we would be cooking ourselves. All the fresh baby vegetable and the smell of aged cheeses and little bars of soap that match the houses around the square. I love the Provence way of life, how all the locals carry a woven basket and shop for a lot of their weekly goods from places like these. These little towns do not support large supermarkets and cuisine in general, is held to a high standard.

Sleepy Cucuron is surrounded with vineyards and olive fields and is home to local farmers, artisans and shopkeepers that hold a strong sense of community for homemade produce. You will find a buzzing wine shop here (where we tried to import wine back home but the language barrier got the both of us) and a well-known Michelin star restaurant “La petit Maison de Cucuron”. The market area leads to the medieval style old town and the highest point leads to a castle, that dungeons only remain.

Ansouis

Nestled in the heart of the Luberon region in Provence, Ansouis is a captivating village that seems to have stepped out of a postcard. Anchored by its well-preserved medieval castle, which crowns the village with timeless elegance, Ansouis invites visitors to wander through its charming labyrinth of narrow streets and stone houses draped in ivy. The rustic beauty of this Provençal gem is complemented by vibrant flower-filled courtyards and panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards and olive groves. Ansouis effortlessly combines history and tranquility, creating a haven for those seeking an authentic taste of Provence, complete with local markets, artisanal shops, and a warm sense of community. This quaint village exudes an irresistible charm, making Ansouis an enchanting destination for travelers looking to immerse themselves in the idyllic allure of southern France.

After our morning stroll in Cucuron we headed to the town of Ansouis, where we had lunch reservations at La Closerie (with 1 Michelin star), also highly recommended by our B&B owner. Buzzing with locals, we loved that the restaurant was a less obvious choice from tourists tucked away in the hidden hills of Ansouis.


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The cultural village of Menerbes

It is said that Menerbes comes from Minerva (Minerve in French), the Roman goddess of wisdom and a supporter of the arts. Fitting to it’s name, it is also village where Peter Mayle wrote his book “A Year in Provence” and its sequels and has attracted a number of artists and noblemen in the past giving it a cultural setting. Menerbes is also another little town with the “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” label that has heaps of charm and sophisticated beauty.

It is said that Menerbes comes from Minerva (Minerve in French), the Roman goddess of wisdom and a supporter of the arts. Fitting to it’s name, it is also village where Peter Mayle wrote his book “A Year in Provence” and its sequels and has attracted a number of artists and noblemen in the past giving it a cultural setting. Menerbes is also another little town with the “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” label that has heaps of charm and sophisticated beauty.

Nestled in the heart of the picturesque Provence region, Ménerbes stands as a timeless testament to the allure of French beauty and charm. This enchanting village, perched atop a hill with panoramic views of the Luberon Valley, exudes a captivating ambiance that beckons travelers from around the world. Renowned for its winding cobblestone streets, ancient stone houses adorned with vibrant bougainvillea, and a skyline dominated by a medieval church tower, Ménerbes effortlessly captures the essence of Provencal elegance. The vibrant colors of the local markets, the aroma of lavender wafting through the air, and the warm hospitality of its residents add an unparalleled richness to the experience. As you wander through this historic gem, it's easy to see why Ménerbes is not just a destination; it's an immersion into the timeless beauty of southern France, a place where history, culture, and natural splendor seamlessly converge, making it an unmissable stop on any traveler's journey. The Luberon region is filled with towns in close proximity and therefore you can easily combine visiting a few of them in one day. For example, visiting Oppede, Bonniuex, and Menerbes is a great combination. Keep in mind that market day is here on Thursday mornings, which we sadly missed.

The hilltop town is scatted with blue shutter windows that is sleepy in the mornings and comes to life closer to noon. It is less crowded than Roussillon and Gordes for instance, which makes it peaceful to stroll around and take in the feeling of the town. Stores, galleries and a few cafes start to trickle open as we walk around the main street. The pink bougainvillea, chic little boutiques and stunning stone buildings give that feeling of traditional Provence. The town is surrounded with vines and orchards with a fortification on top with a tower (La Citadelle) and castle (castle Le Castellet) on each end.

We had pre-booked lunch reservations in the town of Ansouis, but if you are looking for a place to eat in Menerbes, Maison de la Truffe et du Vin is apparently a darling spot. It is dedicated to fresh truffles when in season and it holds tastings with local wines. It is located in a beautiful garden with views of the valley all focused on truffle themed dishes.

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Blog Post Title One

It all begins with an idea.

It all begins with an idea. Maybe you want to launch a business. Maybe you want to turn a hobby into something more. Or maybe you have a creative project to share with the world. Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.

Don’t worry about sounding professional. Sound like you. There are over 1.5 billion websites out there, but your story is what’s going to separate this one from the rest. If you read the words back and don’t hear your own voice in your head, that’s a good sign you still have more work to do.

Be clear, be confident and don’t overthink it. The beauty of your story is that it’s going to continue to evolve and your site can evolve with it. Your goal should be to make it feel right for right now. Later will take care of itself. It always does.

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Provence, France, Travel Guides Hanna Sihvonen Provence, France, Travel Guides Hanna Sihvonen

Beautiful Gordes

You are welcomed to another sweet town with blue shutter windows, impressive cars, twisting cobbled pathways, iron chaired cafes and wicker basket holidayers taking a leisurely French-style stroll. Gordes, a town in the Luberon region, which I’m sure most of you have heard about, as it is often referred as the crown jewel of Provence. If any of you have watched one of favourite movies, “A Good Year”, many of the scenes have been filmed in this cosy town. Being such a picturesque place, Gordes was home to many artists including Marc Chagall and Victor Vasarely and today it is listed as “one of the most beautiful villages of France“.


You are welcomed to another sweet town with blue shutter windows, impressive cars, twisting cobbled pathways, iron chaired cafes and wicker basket holidayers taking a leisurely French-style stroll. Gordes, a town in the Luberon region, which I’m sure most of you have heard about, as it is often referred as the crown jewel of Provence. If any of you have watched one of favourite movies, “A Good Year”, many of the scenes have been filmed in this cosy town. Being such a picturesque place, Gordes was home to many artists including Marc Chagall and Victor Vasarely and today it is listed as “one of the most beautiful villages of France“.

When driving to Gordes, where Route de Cavaillon (D15) and Chemin de Gaumaud meet, you are welcomed by the façade of the perched hilltop town and this is the first spot you are destined to take a photo of the spilling village. Here you can spot the luxurious Bastide de Gordes and see the roads climb up the town that are all surrounded with olive groves and lush fields of wine.

Wandering through the little streets, it is much like any other provincial town that feels like a step back in time where everything is beautiful and well preserved. The town is filled with museums, restaurants, little shops and wandering people who have all come to admire the location. Market day is on Tuesday, if you are in the midst of planning your Provence itinerary. It is very quintessential where you can shop for straw baskets, lavender infused products and all things linen. We stopped for an espresso in the restaurant by the fountain, the same spot where the movie had its restaurant. Steeped in medieval heritage, this perched village boasts stone houses seamlessly integrated into the landscape, creating an architectural masterpiece that has earned it the distinction of being one of the "Les Plus Beaux Villages de France" (The Most Beautiful Villages of France). The castle and narrow cobblestone streets whisper tales of centuries gone by, inviting exploration of its rich past. Gordes not only enchants with its historical allure but also offers a cultural haven where local artisans showcase their crafts in bustling markets, and gastronomic delights celebrate the region's culinary heritage. Visitors are drawn to the panoramic views of the Luberon Valley, the warm hues of the sunset reflecting off limestone walls, and the inviting cafes lining the charming squares. Gordes, with its harmonious blend of history, culture, and natural beauty, is an irresistible invitation to experience the quintessential essence of Provence. For those seeking an authentic journey through time and tradition, Gordes stands as a testament to the enduring allure of this enchanting region.

From muted violets and mauve tones, this is the region where lavender fields come alive from June to August. Gordes is surrounded with blooming fields and if you are here in season, make sure to visit the Notre-Dame de Senanque that is a Cistercian abbey. Despite the fact that we missed the lavender season by a month as we visited in September, Gordes is a village worth exploring. During the day, we visited other little villages nearby such as Menerbes, Cucuron and Lourmarin as everything is close to each other.

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Blog Post Title Two

It all begins with an idea.

It all begins with an idea. Maybe you want to launch a business. Maybe you want to turn a hobby into something more. Or maybe you have a creative project to share with the world. Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.

Don’t worry about sounding professional. Sound like you. There are over 1.5 billion websites out there, but your story is what’s going to separate this one from the rest. If you read the words back and don’t hear your own voice in your head, that’s a good sign you still have more work to do.

Be clear, be confident and don’t overthink it. The beauty of your story is that it’s going to continue to evolve and your site can evolve with it. Your goal should be to make it feel right for right now. Later will take care of itself. It always does.

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France, Provence, Travel Guides Hanna Sihvonen France, Provence, Travel Guides Hanna Sihvonen

Charming Malaucéne

It all begins with an idea.

Malaucéne is a commune in the Vaucluse region in southern eastern France nestled at the foot of Mount Ventoux. The town has numerous horse riding and cycling trails to the mountain, which attracts many locals to spend leisurely weekends. When we entered the hotel, the first question from the manager was “ did we bring bicycles?”. Rich in natural heritage and history, the town has also a splendid gastronomic heritage. Ventoux wine, goat cheese, seasonal vegetables and fruits play a large role in the communes cooking.

Nestled at the foot of the majestic Mont Ventoux in the Provence region of France, Malaucène stands as a quaint and inviting gateway to the natural wonders and cultural richness of this picturesque area. This charming village, with its narrow cobblestone streets and ancient architecture, provides a serene escape for those seeking a blend of historical charm and breathtaking landscapes. Malaucène is not just a starting point for the renowned ascent of Mont Ventoux; it's a destination in itself, offering a delightful array of local markets, artisanal shops, and a warm Provencal ambiance. As you explore the heart of Malaucène, you'll discover a captivating blend of traditional French culture and the beauty of the surrounding countryside. Whether you're an outdoor enthusiast eager to conquer Mont Ventoux or a traveler in search of authentic Provencal experiences, Malaucène promises an enchanting introduction to the soul-stirring allure of southern France.

My hubby and I stayed for two nights, we were actually drawn to the town because of the cute maison we stayed in, Le Pont de L’orme recommended to conde naste traveller. The maison was a few minutes walk from the old town that had a well-praised restaurant that we thoroughly enjoyed.

During the 14th century Pope Clement V enjoyed his summer residence in Malaucéne and today Saint Michel church remains as his imprint. The old town has an almost melancholic atmosphere with a blend of gothic and Romanesque style architecture with beautiful ancient fountains, religious markings and 16th century wash coloured houses to admire. On Wednesday it is market day in the town and many of the restaurants and shops exist on Cours Isnards. On our second night we enjoyed a Gorgonzola pizza before dinner as we saw so many people enjoying them from a little truck, smack centre in town.

During the summer the hotel front hangs with beautiful Wisteria, but we visited late September so we got to experience the first signs of fall with a few dropping leaves.

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Blog Post Title Three

It all begins with an idea.

It all begins with an idea. Maybe you want to launch a business. Maybe you want to turn a hobby into something more. Or maybe you have a creative project to share with the world. Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.

Don’t worry about sounding professional. Sound like you. There are over 1.5 billion websites out there, but your story is what’s going to separate this one from the rest. If you read the words back and don’t hear your own voice in your head, that’s a good sign you still have more work to do.

Be clear, be confident and don’t overthink it. The beauty of your story is that it’s going to continue to evolve and your site can evolve with it. Your goal should be to make it feel right for right now. Later will take care of itself. It always does.

Read More
France, Travel Guides Hanna Sihvonen France, Travel Guides Hanna Sihvonen

Annecy, the Venice of the Alps

Welcome to the land of cheese… We drove up from Provence to Annecy that lays in the southern eastern French Alps for a few nights. It was change of scenery from pale Rosé, foie gras and escargot to mountain tips covered with snow, glistering lake views and comté cheese, the French version of Gruyére. Your eyes could see as far as Mont Blanc & I could see myself coming here during the cozy winter season.

They say it is the Venice of the Alps

Welcome to the land of cheese… We drove up from Provence to Annecy that lays in the southern eastern French Alps for a few nights. It was change of scenery from pale Rosé, foie gras and escargot to mountain tips covered with snow, glistering lake views and comté cheese, the French version of Gruyére. Your eyes could see as far as Mont Blanc & I could see myself coming here during the cozy winter season.

Setteled against the shores of the pristine Lake Annecy, the "Pearl of the French Alps," Annecy, is a captivating blend of medieval charm, alpine allure, and picturesque landscapes. Renowned for its enchanting Old Town, traversed by winding canals adorned with pastel-hued buildings, Annecy exudes a fairytale ambiance that has earned it the moniker "Venice of the Alps." The iconic Palais de l'Isle, a medieval castle set on a triangular islet in the Thiou River, stands as a testament to the city's rich history. Surrounded by snow-capped peaks, Annecy offers not only a stroll through cobblestone streets lined with quaint boutiques and cafes but also the opportunity to embrace the great outdoors with water activities on the crystal-clear lake and exploration of the nearby mountain trails. With its blend of historical allure, natural beauty, and alpine serenity, Annecy invites visitors to immerse themselves in a storybook setting, making it a must-visit destination for those seeking a perfect fusion of culture and nature in the heart of the French Alps. The alpine medieval old town is surrounded with a picturesque lake complete with postcard houses and castles all tangled in between the canals. The canals give a slight Venice vibe, hence Annecy is often referred to as the Venice of the Alps. Our boutique hotel (Le Boutik Hotel) was right in the Vieille Ville, the old part of town. The thiou river spills out of the glacial lake into the canals of old town that are all lined with flowers along the bridges.

Driving from the vineyards of countryside Provence, this little chalet-style town seems almost like a piece of Switzerland. The gingerbread style houses, cobbled roads all lead up to little fondue and raclette restaurants, while the little turquoise canal runs through the centre of town. However, coming in from peaceful Provence, sadly, but understandably the old town was filled with tourists, that was a slight letdown. Nevertheless, you can avoid the crowds by frolicking bright and early in the morning and once you step away from the main streets, there is more calmness. Market day along the canals exists on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday, which draws in the crowds from neighbouring towns. Evidently locals loved to stroll along the lake or visit it via boat and spend time close to the water.

Naturally, the weather is unsure when surrounded with mountains, as they tend to collect all the clouds, so keep that in mind when visiting the Alps. We beat to the rainstorms by filling our bellies with amazing cheese infused treats. Unfortunately I did not have my camera with me over dinner (as it was dark already) but we ate the most glorious ½ kg of raclette that warmed on a cast iron oozing all over potatoes, pickles and cured meats. Restaurant Le Freti was absolute heaven I must say. I love how Annecy was filled with little cheese shops, elegant boutiques, hat and basket stores and countless patisseries. Enjoy tea at Philippe Rigollot Patisserie, an ice cream at glacier des alps (notice the long queue) and enjoy raclette at restaurant chez Mamie Lise or Le Freti. Buy freshly ground coffee beans from a family owned roaster of three generations since 1959, called Brand cafés & Thés.

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Blog Post Title Four

It all begins with an idea.

It all begins with an idea. Maybe you want to launch a business. Maybe you want to turn a hobby into something more. Or maybe you have a creative project to share with the world. Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.

Don’t worry about sounding professional. Sound like you. There are over 1.5 billion websites out there, but your story is what’s going to separate this one from the rest. If you read the words back and don’t hear your own voice in your head, that’s a good sign you still have more work to do.

Be clear, be confident and don’t overthink it. The beauty of your story is that it’s going to continue to evolve and your site can evolve with it. Your goal should be to make it feel right for right now. Later will take care of itself. It always does.

Read More